Williams Cove & Tracy Arm
“Wow, where are we?” one guest said. Most of us on the National Geographic Sea Lion were blind to our surroundings. We awoke in a foggy haze of mystery outside Stephens Passage. Stretch class was jam-packed with many enthusiastic people. I had thought that maybe the high number of participants came to stretch class because they couldn’t see anything else. However, this group was full of active people who appreciate the benefits of breathing fresh air, lengthening their hamstrings, and getting their bodies and spirits strong for Alaska’s challenging and impressive terrain.
With limited visibility we continued with our plan to arrive at Williams Cove for hiking and kayaking. The sun waited behind an obscure blanket of condensed water. We took time to appreciate the element of fog. We noticed the way it changed shape, and the way its density teased us with intermittent translucence. Red-throated loons could be heard but not seen while a harbor seal spied on us. Kayakers could hear a waterfall and stream nearby. Soon, the fog began to lift. Sitka spruce and western hemlock appeared. Dramatic tide lines with yellow-orange kelp painted the banks of the surrounding cove. It was remarkable how the view changed with each second. Not one minute could hold the same scene. It was like watching time-lapse photography, in real time. The fog was no match for the intensity of the sun. Soon the entirety of Williams Cove could be seen. The sun kept us warm as we explored what had just been revealed. The sun’s reflection glared on the ocean, we squinted, smiled and got out our sunglasses.
As the hikers disembarked the Zodiacs, their boots sounded like well-orchestrated music as they marched on the beach made of barnacles on rocks. The trails were lined with moss, devils club, and skunk cabbage. These hikes were a great introduction to Southeast Alaska’s temperate rain forest. Also, we discovered we have a lot of avid photographers on board. The clicks of shutters could be heard in every direction.
Soon we were deeper in Tracy Arm and surrounded by beautiful fjord walls with spectacular cascading waterfalls. With the sun still shining, we discovered two new faces and two more kayaks attached to our stern. Kevin and John, rangers from the Tongass National Forest had arrived to give us additional knowledge on the concept of wilderness and a deeper understanding of what it takes to steward this land. Thankfully, we learned that these pristine lands are protected and will never be developed. We were also among the sacred birthing grounds for harbor seals as we saw the icebergs they utilize for haul outs for birthing and sanctuary for their pups.
There’s no doubt, this has been a rainy summer. However, today the tops of the mountains were visible and there was no wind. The blue colors of the nearby dense ice were accentuated perfectly. We took Zodiacs to the south Sawyer Glacier to get a deeper perspective of their size and greatness. Being in small Zodiacs surrounded by icebergs and the opportunity to feel the chill of a huge glacier is unforgettable. Today was a wonderful way to begin an expedition in Southeast Alaska.
“Wow, where are we?” one guest said. Most of us on the National Geographic Sea Lion were blind to our surroundings. We awoke in a foggy haze of mystery outside Stephens Passage. Stretch class was jam-packed with many enthusiastic people. I had thought that maybe the high number of participants came to stretch class because they couldn’t see anything else. However, this group was full of active people who appreciate the benefits of breathing fresh air, lengthening their hamstrings, and getting their bodies and spirits strong for Alaska’s challenging and impressive terrain.
With limited visibility we continued with our plan to arrive at Williams Cove for hiking and kayaking. The sun waited behind an obscure blanket of condensed water. We took time to appreciate the element of fog. We noticed the way it changed shape, and the way its density teased us with intermittent translucence. Red-throated loons could be heard but not seen while a harbor seal spied on us. Kayakers could hear a waterfall and stream nearby. Soon, the fog began to lift. Sitka spruce and western hemlock appeared. Dramatic tide lines with yellow-orange kelp painted the banks of the surrounding cove. It was remarkable how the view changed with each second. Not one minute could hold the same scene. It was like watching time-lapse photography, in real time. The fog was no match for the intensity of the sun. Soon the entirety of Williams Cove could be seen. The sun kept us warm as we explored what had just been revealed. The sun’s reflection glared on the ocean, we squinted, smiled and got out our sunglasses.
As the hikers disembarked the Zodiacs, their boots sounded like well-orchestrated music as they marched on the beach made of barnacles on rocks. The trails were lined with moss, devils club, and skunk cabbage. These hikes were a great introduction to Southeast Alaska’s temperate rain forest. Also, we discovered we have a lot of avid photographers on board. The clicks of shutters could be heard in every direction.
Soon we were deeper in Tracy Arm and surrounded by beautiful fjord walls with spectacular cascading waterfalls. With the sun still shining, we discovered two new faces and two more kayaks attached to our stern. Kevin and John, rangers from the Tongass National Forest had arrived to give us additional knowledge on the concept of wilderness and a deeper understanding of what it takes to steward this land. Thankfully, we learned that these pristine lands are protected and will never be developed. We were also among the sacred birthing grounds for harbor seals as we saw the icebergs they utilize for haul outs for birthing and sanctuary for their pups.
There’s no doubt, this has been a rainy summer. However, today the tops of the mountains were visible and there was no wind. The blue colors of the nearby dense ice were accentuated perfectly. We took Zodiacs to the south Sawyer Glacier to get a deeper perspective of their size and greatness. Being in small Zodiacs surrounded by icebergs and the opportunity to feel the chill of a huge glacier is unforgettable. Today was a wonderful way to begin an expedition in Southeast Alaska.
