Idaho Inlet, Fox Creek & the Inian Islands

On the north end of Chichagof Island, deep in the fiord called Idaho Inlet, groups of sea otters are often found rafted together and bobbing gently in calm dark water. Early this morning we came upon some of these whiskered furry weasels and watched each other with curiosity. These smallest of the marine mammals are famed for their luxurious coats. During the 1800’s the wealthiest Chinese and Russian citizens were willing to pay a small fortune for the privilege of wearing furs that were the utmost in softness and warmth. At present the sea otters have made a fair recovery from near extinction in 1911.

Ashore at Fox Creek, the valiant hikers were captivated by the huge Sitka spruce and western hemlock trees of the temperate rainforest. That bears inhabit this place was soon evident from the unusual trail of oval footprints we found just inside the forest edge. Bears, like us, are creatures of habit. Sometimes brown bears place their feet in precisely the same place; year after year pressing down the mosses and leaving us this amazing evidence of their passing. Climbing up a muddy slope brought us into another delightful habitat; that of the bog or muskeg. The unexpected clearing and the unusual plant forms create a rather mystical atmosphere in this garden of bonsai trees and miniature moss-lined ponds.

Gale force winds in the Inian Islands made for exhilarating Zodiac cruises. Waves rolling in from the Pacific Ocean were breaking in huge white foaming sprays across the steep rocky islands and added to the wildness and excitement of the scene. Some of the Steller’s sea lions in the water were slamming freshly caught salmon back and forth to break them into edible pieces, while gulls whirled overhead, waiting to dive into the fray for bits of the broken fish. Others popped out of the waves to have a look at us before continuing in their search for fish. Several sea otters were safely tucked into the bull kelp lining the edge of the channel, and some of us stopped to watch a mother rolling around with her pup.

Our day at the outer coast ended as it began, curiously watching sea otters from the bow of the ship, witnessing the wildlife and wilderness of Southeast Alaska at the turn of the season.