Sitka & Cruising Peril Strait

‘Sitka by the Sea’ is a southeast Alaskan jewel perched on the rugged outer coast. The snow-capped peaks of Baranof Island provide a worthy backdrop to frame the historic capital of this vast and wild land. Great battles between the fierce Tlingit people led by Chief Katlian and the invading Russian fur traders were fought here, while in the not yet lower forty-eight, Lewis and Clark were beginning their cross- continental adventures.

We journeyed out to the Raptor Rehabilitation Center to meet with eagles, ravens, owls and hawks and to witness some fine work in saving wounded raptors that is supported by this caring community. A visit to the local national historic park brought an opportunity to learn more history and to walk along the splendid forest trail lined with startling totem poles. We took a bit of time for the local bookstore, St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Church and the art galleries and then we were back aboard the National Geographic Sea Lion, northbound through several narrow and scenic passages.

Olga and Neva Passages were both named for Russian tall ships of the early 1800’s, though how sailing vessels navigated these narrow channels with their rocks and swift currents is beyond my imagining. The small slot at Sergius Narrows was an easy passage for us today, and not far beyond it, a sharp-eyed guest spotted a bear! This was our first brown bear sighting of the trip and this handsome sub-adult sat on the beach and watched us rather casually for awhile. Perhaps it caught our scent as we approached quietly from upwind, because he/she disappeared in an instant.

Late in the day, Kim Heacox read another chapter from ‘The Only Kayak’ to us – the one called Pioneers. It is such a pleasurable luxury to be read to by this delightful local author! Our voyage takes us further northward tonight, following the path of Captain Vancouver into Icy Strait.