Point Adolphus, Elfin Cove & Inian Islands
As the day broke in Southeast Alaska, the National Geographic Sea Lion was positioned near the north entrance of Icy Strait off Point Adolphus. The glass-like water and still air was an enchanting foreground to the low fog bank and early morning rays of light framing the distant mountains. For the guests and staff situated on the bow, the show was just beginning. Soon the still water was accented by numerous towers of mist emitted by feeding humpback whales. The air was so calm that the blows of these massive animals hung like liquid shadows for several minutes on the horizon. This particular locale is rich feeding grounds for the whales and other marine mammals. Several harbor porpoises, Steller sea lions, and sea otters also dotted the glassy water. Taking in such magical surroundings complimented by the presence of such diverse marine life all before breakfast would prove to be an omen of things to come.
We made way shortly after breakfast for the waters around Elfin Cove and the Inian Islands. The sighting of a large raft of sea otters would interrupt the journey. Possibly two dozen of these charismatic and endearing animals seemed to be lounging about on their backs, enjoying the tranquil waters and brilliant sunshine. Several pairs were involved in various aspects of courtship behavior, while others drifted idly cleaning their dense fur and feeding on marine invertebrates.
Leaving the otters to their business, we set off for Elfin Cove. This small boardwalk community built around the protected ‘Gunk’ hole that is Elfin Cove once supported about 60 year round residents. Now the winter population has whittled away to a mere dozen or so occupants. The summer season brings commercial and sport fisherman here in search of the bounty found in the productive waters of the Southeast. The locals are welcoming and always glad to see new faces.
We spent the afternoon exploring in Zodiacs the waters around the Inian Islands. Positioned between Cross Sound to the east and Icy Strait to the west, the Inians are at the confluence of the currents streaming in from the Gulf of Alaska and the protected waters of the Inside Passage. Considered one of the more productive areas in this region, this sometimes-churning body of water hosts a population of Steller sea lions comprised of mostly males both young and old. The regular mixing of the two bodies of waters promotes abundant marine life and attracts schools of salmon and other smaller fishes which, in turn, does not go unnoticed by the sea lions and diverse bird life.
The sea lions could be seen hauled out on the rookery rock, and along the adjacent rocky walls calling out and often jostling for prime positions. When the incoming tide began to surge through the narrows that is when things got more interesting around the Inians. Our guests were fortunate enough to witness dozens of large bull sea lions thrashing about in the swirling waters in search of their prey. These massive animals, some weighing nearly a ton, were clearly well designed for their aquatic life, making effortless dives, passes and sometimes taking a closer look at the bright orange objects in the jet black boat above.
As an added bonus the occasional Humpback whale would surface nearby sending its breath into the air as it would casually arch its massive body back into the rich waters around these rugged and beautiful islands.
