Funter Bay and Chatham Strait
Admiralty Island is a mysterious place. Known for its abundant brown bear population, its dark shores seem forbidding from a distance. This National Monument has approximately one brown bear per square mile, but many of its bays and coves are gems of diversity.
Our morning excursion in Funter Bay brought us right into the forest canopy of Admiralty Island. The bay itself is ringed by a few houses and retains the remnants of a small, remote mining operation. We dropped anchor in the northeastern corner of the bay, Coot Cove, and prepared for our morning activities. Arriving ashore and entering the forest, our hikers encountered wooden railroad ties, decaying wooden buildings, and even an old barge, abandoned in the shelter of the trees. Having experienced the coastal temperate rainforest in many forms thus far, we have begun to see familiar trees and shrubs on each of our forays. False azalea, Sitka alder, western hemlock, Sitka spruce and a variety of ferns popped up along our winding path.
Kayaking and Zodiac tours gave us a wonderful look into the world of invertebrates. With the new moon just past, our tidal range was over 20 feet today. The organisms of the lowest end of the intertidal zone were out in all their glory. Orange cup corals, morning sun stars, painted anemones, and spiky California sea cucumbers were among the creatures clinging to the rocks until the return of their salty home.
We began our trek southward, through the wide expanse of Chatham Strait. Shortly afterwards, we came upon a breaching humpback whale. Launching its entire body out of the water, the massive creature put on a spectacular show. We returned afterwards to the comfort of the lounge to learn about the first people of this vast and forbidding coast. David Stephens shared his passion and artistry, with his knowledge of northwest Native Art and Culture.
As we began to relax and settle into the afternoon, one of our fellow travelers spotted a brown bear sow and 3 cubs walking along the western shores of Admiralty Island. We pulled in for a closer look and marveled at the dark color and small size of the female’s little charges. Our journey continued and Jim “Stratto” Stratton brought perspective to our experience by discussing the history of Alaska’s protected lands.
The kids and teens onboard enjoyed “Dinner and a Movie” in the Lounge, while our adult contingent took advantage of the opportunity for conversation and another gourmet meal in the dining room. Everyone settled into the evening, as the light dimmed into another Alaskan twilight.
