Thomas Bay and Petersburg
We awoke to a misty morning as we crossed the bar into Thomas Bay. This bay, which is situated off Frederick Sound on the mainland coast, was carved by the ever-looming Baird Glacier. We made our way toward a trailhead on the northern shore, hoping to hike along the Spurt Lake Trail.
We disembarked after breakfast and headed out on our adventure. More than half of our group decided to join a walk into the forest, climbing upward and navigating areas of wonderful, old forest, complete with deep Southeast Alaskan mud. Spurt Lake Trail is a beautiful place, boasting an incredible rock wall that drips with moisture and lush vegetation. The trail snaked upward, crossing several areas of downed trees and incredible understory. Plump blueberries and a few remaining salmonberries peeked out from under the greenery alongside the trail. Others of us went on a Zodiac cruise across Thomas Bay to enjoy the aptly named, “Scenery Cove”. Our explorations today took us into a section of the Coast Mountains that none of us had previously visited. We were treated to many varieties of flowering plants along the shoreline, such as lupine, yarrow, and red paintbrush, as well as fruiting varieties of shrubs and low-lying plants. The sun made an appearance as we rode our Zodiacs back toward the ship and headed to Petersburg. Numerous clouds drifted across the mountains, making for a mysterious exit to this mysterious bay.
We entered Wrangell Narrows during lunch and arrived at the dock in the early afternoon. Petersburg, founded by Norwegian immigrant Peter Buschmann, still bears signs of its foundations in the rosemaling (beautiful, colored paintings of flowers) on the sides of many of the homes and businesses in town. The heartbeat of modern Petersburg, however, is the commercial fishing industry. Many of the larger purse seiners that are common fixtures in the harbor were out plying the waters, but there were still many other commercial vessels along the docks, awaiting the next salmon opening. The docks, themselves, play host to a plethora of invertebrates, visible only to those willing to lie down on the dock and lean over for a look.
The rain broke long enough for a few of us to enjoy scenic rides on floatplanes or to take a spin around town on a bicycle. Although our experiences today were varied, we all enjoyed seeing a slice of small-town Alaska. Near the end of our time here, Dr. Fred Sharpe of the Alaska Whale Foundation came aboard to discuss his recent research with humpback whale populations in Southeast Alaska. His incredible knowledge, gleaned over years and years of watching whales, was invaluable to our understanding of these enormous creatures.
Our day ended with the carnage of a Crab Feast in the Dining Room. Crab crackers poised and napkins tucked into our shirts, we tackled the mounting piles of crab with gusto and aplomb. It was an extremely full day, but our activities were fun and adventurous. Tonight, we head farther north into Frederick Sound, certain that tomorrow’s activities will bring many new experiences and opportunities for exploration!
