Ideal Cove and Petersburg
The clanging of the anchor chain signaled our arrival at Ideal Cove, an ideal place for a walk into an impressive temperate rain forest. We ate breakfast early to maximize our morning here. It was difficult to choose among aerobic, long, medium and leisure walks, but before long we all ashore to explore. Wispy lichens and spongy mosses festooned the Sitka spruce and western hemlock trees that towered above a lush understory of ferns, devil’s club, blueberries and immense skunk cabbages like in the photo. Moose tracks remained alongside the trail as evidence of their presence on this island. The Naturalists described the intricacies of this special ecosystem and led us along plank walkways that for some groups reached a lake where beavers had constructed a stout dam. It was a good test for the rubber boots and raingear that had seemed so heavy in our luggage.
National Geographic Sea Lion repositioned while we listened to a talk about whales, and during lunch, the ship reached the dock at Petersburg where we planned to spend the afternoon. This authentic fishing community is not a tourist town. Locals walk the streets in rubber boots and one of the highlights for shoppers is the hardware store. Still, we found plenty of treasures to buy during our visit. The Norwegian heritage is conspicuous, with a Viking craft beneath the Sons of Norway Hall and window shutters painted with decorative flowers in a style called rosemaling (see photo).
Hikers boarded Zodiacs for a short ride to nearby Kupreanof Island and a walk to a muskeg, or peat bog. It was so different from the morning outing in the forest. A muskeg is a meadow-like fairyland of sodden moss and dwarfed trees that look as if they have been carefully pruned. This acidic environment is home to specialized plants such as the carnivorous sundews that have sticky hairs to ensnare unsuspecting spiders and insects.
Another outing focused on the marine invertebrates beneath the floating docks. There is a fascinating abundance of life clinging to every exposed surface here, but it is most often overlooked. Plumose anemones extended their frilly tentacles to await a meal of plankton. Maroon feather-duster worms, bright orange sea cucumbers, and blue mussels also sifted the water for food.
Many guests opted for flightseeing over the LeConte Glacier. This is the southernmost tidewater glacier in the northern hemisphere, and at one time, ice that calved from the terminus was used in transporting halibut by steamer from Petersburg to San Francisco. The float planes planed across the water and then lifted off en route to spectacular vistas of glacially carved landscapes and the glacier itself, where pools of blue water dotted the expansive surface.
Everyone was back aboard at 6 o’clock when the officers maneuvered National Geographic Sea Lion back through the harbor and into the open water of Frederick Sound. During the evening recap, we were treated to video footage of the afternoon’s invertebrate life. We then feasted on fresh crab and barbecued ribs, as the ship motored north towards new adventures within the wild country of Southeast Alaska.
