Saook Bay

Within Southeast Alaska lie vast expanses of truly wild land. A prime example is Saook Bay, where there are very few signs of human activity. Our goal for the morning was not to walk on manicured paths but instead to experience the wildness of the temperate rainforest, coastal meadow, and quiet bay.

Once ashore, we wandered along slippery bear trails between lush forest and the seaweed-strewn shoreline visible in the photograph. Bears scramble over and under fallen logs that are not quite so easy for humans to negotiate, but we fared quite well. Huge Sitka spruce and western hemlock trees towered alongside the coastal fringe and the banks of two streams that fed into the inlet.

Dead and dying pink salmon were everywhere. After spawning, they die and their bodies nourish the streams and the adjacent forest. Glaucous-winged and mew gulls stood crowded on the tidal flats, and bald eagles perched nearby, ready to take their fill of the abundant carcasses.

All of the hikes had challenging footing, but the longest was a real exploratory adventure. Down timber and nearly impenetrable thickets of salmonberries blocked the way but did not stop the effort to push on. Although a bit muddy, all of the groups eventually returned to the landing unscathed.

Some chose shorter walks in combination with the opportunity to take to the water by kayak. The third mate and boatswain had lined up the colorful boats side-by-side at the water’s edge. Paddling is a great way to observe harbor seals, salmon, and great-blue herons without disturbing them.

The officers lifted the Zodiacs and kayaks to the top deck and pulled anchor while we ate lunch. Once underway, National Geographic Sea Lion traveled first to Admiralty Island and then south. Many remained on deck to spot Pacific loons, mergansers and even patches of sunshine and blue sky! More than 60 harbor seals looked like silver and golden sausages strewn on a rocky outcrop. Our Hotel Manager brought drinks outside for us to enjoy, and later, an impressive waterfall topped the afternoon cruising.

Eventually the afternoon merged into evening, and as cocktail hour approached, we gathered in the lounge for a recap of the day’s experiences, information about Admiralty Island, and film footage taken during the day to capture the undersea life so rich in the waters of Southeast Alaska.