Endicott Arm and Ford’s Terror
Cathedrals of rock and ice! Today was spent exploring the Tracy Arm - Ford Terror’s Wilderness Area. Making our way toward the Dawes Glacier at the head of the Endicott Arm, National Geographic Sea Lion sailed on through icebergs, rain and at times katabatic winds reaching 30 knots. But, to our surprise and pleasure, within two miles of the wall of ice - blue sky appeared. The wind and mist subsided to reveal the awesomely beautiful serpentine river of ice.
The natural history staff and guests explored the ice floe in front of the glacier by Zodiac. In addition to a display of glacial calving, we also spotted harbor porpoise, harbor seals, bald eagles, artic terns and a mountain goat. In a tiny harbor created by the glaciation of the fjord and the rising tide of the day, our underwater specialist found limpets, barnacles, red algae and an urchin clinging to the rocks in the intertidal zone. To cap off the surreal scene, the ship’s hotel manager and bar tender delivered hot chocolate by Zodiac with a personal touch to help ward off the chill!
An exploratory diversion was intriguing as the expedition staff and a couple dozen guests traveled via Zodiac to a previously unexplored stream with lush grassland banks and meadow. Another mountain goat was spotted, along with a number of bird species enjoying the stream that flowed down from the surrounding rock towers.
Our last stop of the afternoon was at Ford’s Terror. This one-of-a-kind fjord was named for US Navy Master-at-Arms H.L. Ford, who in 1897 mistakenly allowed his survey party to get trapped behind the ice choked and wild rapids-like tidal flow at the exit. Aided by the modern invention of more accurate tide tables, the expedition was able to time its Zodiac runs through the narrow entrance and out again in unobstructed comfort. The vistas here are incomparable with huge fault line cracks visible in the steep fjord that was ‘the terror’. Waterfall cascades that are easily thousands of feet high appear at every turn of the Y-shaped waterway. On the return to the ship, Mother Nature kicked up her heels and the ride back into strong blustery winds and resulting wind chop were a ‘Ford-like’ challenge.
Can we please do it again?
