Cascade Creek and Petersburg
Light rain dimpled the otherwise calm surface as the National Geographic Sea Lion cruised by Baird’s Glacier just before breakfast. This glacier no longer touches the sea and is grounded on a broad outwash plain, but it is still a source of glacial silt that had turned the water a milky tan. The light rain subsided, and after eating, we climbed into Zodiacs to cruise or hike at Cascade Creek. A Forest Service trail leads into the forest and follows the tumbling stream to a spectacular waterfall. Planks of rot-resistant Alaska yellow cedar helped us avoid stepping on the carpets of soft mosses, tangles of roots, and dense blueberries that formed the lush understory. Those choosing a longer walk climbed up a series of steep stairs. The path continued through western hemlocks and Sitka spruce trees to an elevated bridge that crossed a narrow slot where the turbulent water was funneled into a writhing froth. Several groups had close-up encounters with a rough-skinned newt, an orange-bellied amphibian that is toxic to eat. A charcoal-grey bird perched on the shore-line rocks and bobbed up and down, instantly identifying it as a dipper. Once back on board, we sailed on and watched a film about the history of Petersburg in preparation for our afternoon destination.
This fishing town is not a typical tourist stop for cruise ships, and it was fun and enlightening to explore by float plane, bicycle, and by foot. Peter Buschmann settled here in 1897 and later was followed by others of Norwegian heritage. The community still retains a Scandinavian flair, and only recently celebrated the Little Norway Festival, an annual event. The ship tied up in the heart of the crowded harbor, surrounded by fishing boats. Flightseers were treated to magnificent views of glacial ice far below. Bicycles offered a chance to escape on the island’s limited road system. There was time to wander the quiet streets as well. Instead of an endless strip of gift shops, one of the highlights is the local hardware store. A stroll along the floating docks was offered for those who wanted to learn more about the fishing fleet and rigging styles. Beneath us, a crowded and colorful array of sea anemones and other undersea life clung to the pilings. Aerobic walkers took off with the wellness specialist for some exercise, and there was also an opportunity to visit a muskeg accessible by a trail across the channel on nearby Kupreanof Island. This environment is covered with soggy peat moss and dotted by dwarfed shore pines and unusual plants not found in the forest.
Before leaving Petersburg, Dr. Andy Szabo, Director of the Alaska Whale Foundation, came aboard with a fascinating presentation about humpback whale natural history, behavior, and research in this region. Following his talk and the evening recap, we feasted on Dungeness crab, picked up in town along with platters of tasty ribs. Apple-walnut cake and a presentation on geology finished our evening after another exciting day in Southeast Alaska.
