Fox Creek & Icy Strait
Krump. That is the deep resonating sound of many tons of temporarily airborne blubberous bulk crashing down onto the water’s surface. Maslow’s hierarchy of needs is momentarily suspended as the entire dining room effectively flees from breakfast to get out on deck to see this extremely playful young humpback. Thwack. The whale’s frolicking continues in earnest as it begins to tail lob with a seemingly endless supply of enthusiasm. Tail lobbing involves lifting the entire posterior half of the mammal’s body clear of the water and bringing it back down with a strong degree of force, resulting in a loud reverberating splash that can be heard from great distances, above and below. This activity, frequently interspersed with more breaching, continues with vigor for the better part of an hour to the point where his/her floating audience is empathetically exhausted from the spirited efforts of throwing around that amount of mass about. Finally we part ways, leaving the exuberant calf behind, glowing from the experience and yet the day has barely started!
The brisk rattle of the anchor chain followed by the gentle hum and whine of the ship’s crane hydraulics heralds the methodical dropping of our four Zodiacs and the start to the operations for the day in the Inian Islands. Piling into the boats, wearing the most fashionable hue of orange, we set out to survey this dynamic environment and its inhabitants. Regally perched bald eagles regard us stoically as we speed underneath their evergreen thrones while an uncommonly hauled out sea otter tries desperately to act nonchalant while he determines if we are a threat. These islands are squeezed tightly together, forming narrow choke points that are affected dramatically by the fluctuating tides and proximity to the rougher seas of the Gulf of Alaska. We have arrived at this place, locally referred to as “The Washing Machine”, for this very reason as the strong currents bring large fish, which are a welcome meal for some other locals, Steller sea lions. They are the largest of all the sea lions, weighing in the hundreds of pounds, easily maneuvering in the roiling currents that form swirling eddies and whirlpools. The erratic snuffling and snorts of dozens of the huge beasts punctuate the moments as they pop up for air all around us, totally unfazed by our presence. Occasionally the screeching of gulls will signal that one has caught a fish, and we are treated to the spectacle of a fresh salmon being thrashed back and forth in the massive jaws, breaking it up into more swallowable pieces.
Such activities ignite our own hunger, a matter which is quickly resolved back onboard. The day of sights and sounds continues as we reposition to Fox Creek for interpretive hikes and kayaking. Soon the waters are sprinkled with red and yellow as paddlers explore the coastline and circumnavigate islands under the watchful eyes of harbor seals and staff alike. Through the tranquil silence the soft wheezing exhales of humpbacks can be heard a few inviting miles away. Always happy to oblige them, we end the day back onboard the National Geographic Sea Lion; following several groups of these graceful cetaceans that are hopefully enjoying this magical part of the world as much as we are.
