Alert Bay, British Columbia
We awoke on approach to Alert Bay. This town, near the north end of Vancouver Island, is the cultural centre of the Kwakwakawakw Indians.
Soon after breakfast we were ashore. Most walked along the waterfront main street. We passed totem poles, canoes, fishing boats and the Anglican Church – all important cultural and historical parts of this community. Eventually we reached the ‘Umista Cultural Centre. This museum houses the Potlatch Collection, a group of masks confiscated in 1921, when potlatches were illegal. Now returned, the masks are handsomely displayed. Lillian, our local guide, described the masks and how they were used ceremonially.
After some time in other parts of the museum, and in the well-stocked gift shop, we walked up the hill to the Alert Bay Bighouse. This impressive building has held more potlatches than anywhere else in history, and is a great cultural resource. Massive houseposts, richly carved, support its roof. Painted screens of ravens and killer whales rise above the log drum upon which singers pound out ancient songs. A large fire billowed flames and smoke as we entered; it was a most impressive scene.
We were met by the Tsasatla Dancers, a group of elders teaching kids ancestral ceremony. Andrea Cranmer, co-founder of the group, welcomed us with the help of chiefs and elders, and described the cultural significance of the dances. We saw many of these, including the fierce Hamatsa dancers, the Nanalala, bringing fair weather, and the Madam, or fliers. At last we joined in the Umlala, or Fun Dance. All the while, Andrea spoke of the value of these ceremonial dances, and the pride and responsibility many share in passing them on. At last, as our potlatch “payment,” we were given salmon and fry-bread – when it’s good, it’s really good! We also picked up another souvenir – leaving the Bighouse, we all smelled like smoked salmon! The Bighouse at Alert Bay is a remarkable place. To enter it and witness its treasures is a rare privilege.
In the afternoon we motored south into Johnstone Strait. This narrow channel between Vancouver Island and the mainland concentrates salmon, and is famed for the killer whales that come to greet them. While protected, it is near enough to the open ocean to attract pelagic species. We found some of these, Pacific white-sided dolphins. A large number swam scattered around us. Though busy fishing, some leapt high in the air, others slapped their tails. Best of all were the bow-riders. Several groups swam over to do some “underwater surfing” in front of the ship. The creatures were beautifully patterned, and we could see them easily just a few feet away.
The Northwest Coast is marvelously rich in cultural and natural history. Today we were lucky to be steeped in both.
