Los Islotes and Ensenada Grande, Isla Partida
The dulcet tones of the morning wake-up call roused us from a night of deep, wave-rocked sleep. Encouraged by the early signs of a staggering sunrise, we rubbed the sleep from our eyes and wandered out on deck. A soft morning light cast smooth tones onto the barren islet called Los Islotes. The raucous, almost offensive bellows and belches emanating from this pinnacle of rock stood in sharp contrast to the serene seas and pastel sky. Never has an explorer been surprised by a sea lion colony, for these pinnipeds make their presence known with call or smell, often times both. Luckily our anchorage afforded us an upwind vantage point during the morning on-deck stretching session with wellness specialist Eza.
Our day started with a Zodiac cruise around the small islet taking advantage of light winds and glorious light. The Zodiacs felt like Bentleys compared to the bouncy, stiff ride we undertook in local pangas yesterday. We used the ship’s fleet of small boats to get intimate looks at the avian fauna here in the Gulf of California. The high whistling call of blue-footed boobies and honk of brown boobies could barely be discerned amidst the energetic California sea lion colony. The whiskered distractors made bird watching all but impossible with their amazing maneuverability and oppressive curiosity. Eventually, the playful sea lions were trumped by yet another much-loved charismatic animal when a cluster of diving sea birds was spotted amidst splashes of activity. Those being the sure sign of dolphins, we left the islet and motored into open water for a glimpse of the food web in action. Just a few moments later the airborne bodies of hunting bottlenose dolphins were spotted all around the Zodiacs. For a short while we marveled at the grace and speed of these intelligent predators while noting the effortless flight of feeding magnificent frigate birds.
As the sun crept higher into the sky and the air warmed, we donned our wetsuits for a face-to-face encounter with the marine life we love so much. The rhythmic strokes of creole fish captured many eyes between the lightning-fast charges of juvenile sea lions. Behind the curtain of bubbles left by these playful marine mammals, we saw a rocky reef community rife with life. Even the heavily affected groupers were ever present as they skirted along at the limits of visibility. What is it about this particular location that allows it to support such a community?
Upon return to the ship we delved deep into the theories behind marine conservation. Utilizing the models set forth by Rare, a moderated discussion on the future of world fisheries was held after lunch. Yesterday’s adventures at Cabo Pulmo, one of the most successful tropical marine conservation areas on the planet, made our discussion even more relevant. Using Rare’s TURF (Territorial Use Rights for Fisheries) as a model, we examined the problems, solutions and future or Earth’s fisheries and how TURF zones might alleviate the increased fishing pressures of upcoming years. The goal is to create TURF zones dedicated to fish recovery by effectively eliminating any fishing which are buffered by areas with limited, local access fishing monitored by local agencies rather than national governments. The key idea here is LOCAL. For the system to work, local organizations must see the economic advantages of having viable fisheries managed and cared for by local fishermen. By far the most important and striking conclusion from this open dialogue was that it is our responsibility to change how we think about conservation. Instead of thinking about saving fish for the good of the ecosystem, we must first think about the advantages local communities will gain by having more fish in their own coastal waters. With the implementation of TURF zones, local communities can take responsibility and reap the benefits both socially and economically for management of fisheries. If someone asks “What do I gain by having more fish in the sea?” we have already failed in projecting our goals. Instead of starting with more fish, we must first address what local, artisanal fishing communities rely on most. How will these communities continue to thrive and balance the trade-off with tradition and modernization? By inspiring them to seek out a way to fish forever.
