Desolation Sound

Today we explored Desolation Sound, a network of sheltered fjords and inlets on the mainland of British Columbia. We cruised past islets and evergreen-covered shorelines as we snaked our way up narrow Malaspina Inlet. Rows of blue and white buoys near shore marked aquaculture rigs for mussels and oysters. Bright purple sea stars clinging to the rocks were exposed by low tide.

In cozy Grace Harbour we walked on trails through a lush, green forest of western redcedar, Douglas fir and red alder. Tall dead trees were pockmarked with large woodpecker holes. Beneath all this, the forest understory was covered by ferns and mosses; most tree branches were draped in mosses, too. We walked to a quiet pond topped with water lilies.

While most guests returned to the ship, some of us (3 staff and 2 guests) took the ‘polar bear plunge’ into Grace Harbour. We dove in, and upon surfacing gasped for air and exclaimed, ‘Wow! It’s really cold!’ It was loads of fun, and truly exhilarating!

We spent the afternoon in another gorgeous part of Desolation Sound called Prideaux Haven, where countless islets separate tiny coves and narrow passages of water. It is a perfect place to explore by kayak, and nearly everyone selected that option. We launched from a very tiny beach at the head of a small cove. The high tide submerged many plants on the upper beach, and western redcedar branches dipped into the water. Light rain added to the lovely, quiet atmosphere. We paddled along the edges of islets, over rocks and oysters. Harbor seals appeared, watched us, and then slipped quietly beneath the surface. Bits of mist and clouds clung to the surrounding small mountains.

Before dinner, Bette Lu Krause prepared us for tomorrow’s visit to Alert Bay with a presentation about the rich culture and potlatch tradition of the Kwaka’waka’wak, a First Nations people.

Heading north tonight we will be transiting the once treacherous passage called Seymour Narrows, a bottleneck which can have currents of 13 knots. The timing of our passage is crucial, as currents tonight will run at 9.8 knots and the ship’s maximum speed is 10 knots! After dinner we watched a short, historical film which tells the story of the 1958 engineering project to blow up Ripple Rock, which once made Seymour Narrows even more treacherous for vessels.