The Gulf Islands and Nanaimo

During our first night on the National Geographic Sea Lion we crossed into Canada and traveled north to the Gulf Islands, outcrops of sedimentary rocks partially blanketed by forest. It was a morning to relax and become more familiar with the ship after an optional morning stretch with our wellness specialist. Sunshine broke through the clouds, inviting us to the decks to enjoy the passing scenery. Suddenly the flat-calm water stirred as a humpback whale broke the surface. Humpbacks are common in Southeast Alaska but are not so frequently encountered in the inland waterways of British Columbia. What a treat! We lingered with this individual for some time. The naturalists pointed out the elongated pectoral fins, the characteristic dorsal fin, and the shape of the blow. Now and then it lifted its droopy flukes in a graceful arc before submerging for a slightly longer dive. Eventually, we continued on and left the whale behind.

Bald eagles and a number of species of seabirds provided birders, photographers, and those new to birding with opportunities to capture mental and actual images. The naturalists helped to point out decisive field marks of glaucous-winged, mew, California, Bonaparte’s and other gulls. We saw great numbers of Pacific loons that typically winter along the coast and pass through these waters en route to their artic breeding grounds. Murres, guillemots, and other members of the auk, or alcid, family paddled warily nearby.

Ferries and private boats shared this sheltered passage with the National Geographic Sea Lion. Although we didn’t spot any sea lions today, we did find harbor seals either swimming or sprawling out like fat sausages on the rocky shore line.

Before lunch, our photo instructor gave an insightful presentation on photography. Following the talk, people gathered in small groups to learn more about their own cameras in preparation for the days to come.

Because of our entrance into Canada, we needed to go through formalities with Customs and Immigration, and the town of Nanaimo on Vancouver Island was the perfect place to stop. We took advantage of the landing to explore this community of about 84,000 people. The curator of the local museum related the city’s varied history and escorted us to a bastion overlooking the sea. We examined the building along with two old cannons, and a local guide ignited one, creating a cloud of smoke. After a short walk through the narrow streets, we reached the museum for a visit.

By 4 o’clock everyone had returned to the ship for our departure to new territory as we headed north for the remainder of the day and through the night, still within the rain shadow of Vancouver Island.