The Steppes of Washington & Oregon

Today was a day for relaxing during the downriver navigation. We prepared to close the circle of adventure on the mighty rivers Columbia and Snake, and bring the expedition to a close. At daybreak we sailed onto the Columbia River, leaving the Snake River behind at the confluence where Sacajawea State Park stands guard.

As we sailed past the golden brown Steppes interspersed with lush green orchards of apple, peach and grape, by now we understood the price being paid for this wealth on the land. The cost of having the dams, from where the water is pumped, is high. Energy here is cheap, but the hidden costs we have been paying for decades is only now coming due with the overall low return rates of salmon to their natal streams, and the subsidizing of large agriculture for export crops, and the list goes on.

But the country is magnificent, the history astounding. Starting millions of years ago, cataclysmic floods of basalt and then later (much later), water from ice dams, had created a landscape like no other. The incredible dedication and valor of the first westerners to explore this unknown land is the story of true heroism. The passion of the First Nation peoples left to save their culture so integral with the earth is awe-inspiring.

Just before lunch I put out a spur-of-the-moment offer – anyone interested in “locking down” inside McNary Lock by Zodiac? The lock master had answered our query about this possibility with a positive thumbs-up; there was barely a wind, the sky was clear, no traffic was waiting, we had some time, and the stars were aligned…so we went for it! Intrepid guests with a sense for adventure and willing to board Zodiacs with fifteen minutes of warning joined me for this outing “just because we can”. What a different perspective and appreciation it gives of the immense size of these locks and dams! Those on board the ship waved to those below, and lots of smiles were created by this bit of fun.

The afternoon was spent in wrap-ups and photo-ops – John Day lock providing the back drop, substitute gate and all (still not replaced after its accident eight months ago).