Whakaari / White Island

It’s not often you can safely walk around inside an active volcano but this morning that is exactly what we did. Known as Whakaari to New Zealand’s original Polynesian settlers and named White Island by James Cook, this perpetually steaming mountain was our first landfall after leaving the big city of Auckland last night. One side of the crater wall has collapsed, providing easy access to the hissing vents and sulphurous wonders of the crater floor. Here, steam poured out in many places; quietly bubbling up in small streams or roaring like a jet engine as it escaped small conical vents. Splashes of bright yellow sulphur adorned the ground in many places, while the air was pungent with its scent. Our local guides had outfitted us with hardhats and gasmasks and there were some areas where the masks were an essential piece of equipment. But, soon enough the wind changed direction and we were back to breathing normally. It is hard to imagine a more dynamic landscape.