Sepik River & Manam Island
Today we awoke to the sights of canoes, stilted houses, and jungle as we journeyed up the mighty Sepik (Sea-pick) to the village Bien. One of the great river systems of the world it winds its way in a serpentine fashion for over 700 miles from the Victor Emanuel Ranges into the Bismarck Sea.
We were soon boarding Xplorer to shuttle the short distance to shore. Rain had softened the walking route as we meandered through the village towards the school grounds for our welcome sing sing making it slippery and muddy, some of us were guided along the way by the sure hands of the local villagers. Family houses and small market places dotted the route. We are starting to realize that Papua New Guineans may have been the first to recycle and reuse—the bush materials used to build houses are by-products from either the sago palm, or other trees gathered for food items. Sago is the staple diet along the river complimented with fish and greens. The Sago tree is harvested by felling it, pounding the flesh within, and then washing the fibrous crop to produce sediment. This flour is dried and stored for a month being used to make starchy pancakes and pudding on a daily basis, then the whole process repeated. With no nutritional value it helps line the stomach when out in the surrounding lakes and rivers, fishing or hunting.
We were soon perched on the sides of desks and benches and being entertained by the local primary school. The program (written and handed to our expedition leader Larry) included assembly, flag rising, the national anthem, and pledge followed by a welcome from the head master Mr. Mato, and community leader Mr Boo. What a spectacle, over fifty dancers in traditional dress, complete with kundu and garamut drums paraded up and down the sports ground performing traditional songs and dancers. On the fringe of the grounds local markets of carvings, necklaces, and bilum (string) bags had culminated. The sing sing group is renowned in the local area having just returned from the middle Sepik performing for one of the provinces celebrations. Soon we were enticed onto the dance ground joining our expedition staff, lead by Suzanne, to the absolute delight of all. Never before had tourists danced, so stories of the Lindblad visit will be re-told for a number of months. Mr. Kaila directed the farewell song as we left with heavy heart from our experience in the Sepik, one that will be remembered for some time by visitors and locals alike. With our prized treasures we returned to the comfort of the Oceanic Discoverer.
To cap the excitement of the day we were treated to a BBQ dinner and show with the magnificent Manam Island volcano lighting up the sky with its red glow.
