Twin Towers/Ferguson Island Papua New Guinea
We arrive early morning at the D'Entrecasteaux Island Group, just off the southeastern tip of New Guinea. The D'Entrecasteaux Island Group marks an extraordinary geographical transition from the flat coral islands of the Trobriands to the wild volcanic rocks we now gaze out upon from the promenade deck. ‘Good morning, good morning’ was the announcement from our expedition leader Larry Prussin followed with ‘look out for the Sea Eagles circling the ship.’ This morning Larry and the Oceanic Discoverer crew worked his magic and we were to enjoy yet another snorkeling experience, our last for the trip. Whilst it was an expedition stop at ‘Twin Towers’, located between the island of Ferguson and Sanaro, it turned out to be the highlight of the trip, with most us staying the full two hours in the water, dissolving into this marine wonderland. The abundant variety of fish life on the reef was the best we had seen.
Ferguson Island, the largest island of the group, is notable for its hot springs, bubbling mud pools, spouting geysers, and extinct volcanoes. It has been suggested that perhaps it is this fearsome landscape that gives these islands their reputation for witchcraft, sorcery, and ruthless cannibalism. The afternoon was spent discovering Dei Dei hot springs, led in small groups, by the traditional landowners. We were told about the mythical Seuseulina spirit which lives in the geyser, when called upon it erupts (after a few attempts). In the past there was a woman named Seuseulina whose husband had run away with another woman, and she threw herself, heartbroken, into the largest of these hot springs, which thereafter became this sprouting geyser. The guides threw stones and called out ‘Seuseulina dasurabe udaseura sundine ama oagao sida ital’ – ‘come out, come out and show yourself Seuseulina’ and the geyser sprayed furiously in response. When asked what the thermal pools are used for today, our guide responded by saying “to cook food, wilt pandanus leaves (used for weaving), and any tourists left behind”… uncertain if the comment was a ruse or not it certainly helped to keep us on track and back in the Xplorer for our return to the ship.
After a refreshing swim from the bow of the ship (much to the local’s amusement) followed by the captain’s farewell drinks, a ‘chance to forage’ in the words of our fearless leader, and farewell photos, we were bound for Alotau the end port of our journey. The comradelier of the trip over flowed with final farewells, linking new and old friends together in the friendship of travel.
