Krka National Park & Village of Kalpic
Residents of the Mediterranean region have felt the blast of its winds for millennia. Whether it’s the mistral of southern France, the meltemi of the Greek Isles or the sirocco from North Africa, these seasonal winds have long chilled coastal residents and plagued sailors with heavy seas. This morning we felt the bora of the Dalmatian Coast, as we boarded our motorcoaches for the short ride to Krka National Park. Leaving the blustery port city of Sibenik behind, we wound our way to the Krka River and spent the morning wandering the trails along the river and through the chapparal-like woodlands. The river flows over extensive limestone terrain, creating karst formations along its upper reaches, and travertine curtains beside its seven waterfalls. While pines, juniper, hackberry and other drought adapted plants merely survive on the hillsides here, riparian vegetation like maidenhair ferns and introduced bamboo thrive along the riverbanks. Local vendors sold figs, walnuts, sugared almonds and sweet wild blackberries at stands along the trail, providing both local flavor and small snacks for hikers.
Returning to Sibenik in the late morning, we walked a short distance along the waterfront, to the 15th century cathedral of St. James. Our guide Marijana told stories of the cathedral’s nearly century-long construction by a series of well-known stonemasons. Outside, a frieze of 71 heads rims the cathedral’s perimeter, two lions roar at each other at the east entrance, and the columns that flank the north entrance are embellished with principal stonemason Juraj Dalmatinac’s signature leaves, fruit and swirls. Inside, light filters through the richly colored stained glass of the large rose window above the north entrance. On our return to the ship for lunch, most chose to stroll the narrow side streets and alleys, perfectly designed to provide shelter from the wind.
Although predicted to calm in the late afternoon, the winds continued to blow, so we opted to remain at the dock and alter our plans slightly. National Geographic Expert Grace Fielder gave a wonderful program on The Myth of Maps, helping us to see how subjective these ostensibly impartial graphics can be. In the late afternoon, our Expedition Leader Tom and our Croatian guide Danijela managed to arrange a fabulous treat. Just a short coach ride away from the industrial port of Sibenik, we entered the rustic village of Kalpic. Here, the Kalpic family produces and sells their own wines and brandies, as well as offering locally produced cheeses, jams, honey, nuts and pickled peppers for sale. Daughter Ivana presented the family’s brandies for tasting, and many of us found the sight nearly as appealing as the taste. Late afternoon light glowed ruby and amber through the bottles, and we sampled tastes of cherry, walnut, herb and carob rakija. Ivana and her sister Anita then invited us to sit at a table laden with platters of prsut, local cheese and olives, bowls of tangy pickled sweet peppers and pitchers of the family’s red wine. We toasted “Plan B”, before returning to the ship for a late evening departure.
Residents of the Mediterranean region have felt the blast of its winds for millennia. Whether it’s the mistral of southern France, the meltemi of the Greek Isles or the sirocco from North Africa, these seasonal winds have long chilled coastal residents and plagued sailors with heavy seas. This morning we felt the bora of the Dalmatian Coast, as we boarded our motorcoaches for the short ride to Krka National Park. Leaving the blustery port city of Sibenik behind, we wound our way to the Krka River and spent the morning wandering the trails along the river and through the chapparal-like woodlands. The river flows over extensive limestone terrain, creating karst formations along its upper reaches, and travertine curtains beside its seven waterfalls. While pines, juniper, hackberry and other drought adapted plants merely survive on the hillsides here, riparian vegetation like maidenhair ferns and introduced bamboo thrive along the riverbanks. Local vendors sold figs, walnuts, sugared almonds and sweet wild blackberries at stands along the trail, providing both local flavor and small snacks for hikers.
Returning to Sibenik in the late morning, we walked a short distance along the waterfront, to the 15th century cathedral of St. James. Our guide Marijana told stories of the cathedral’s nearly century-long construction by a series of well-known stonemasons. Outside, a frieze of 71 heads rims the cathedral’s perimeter, two lions roar at each other at the east entrance, and the columns that flank the north entrance are embellished with principal stonemason Juraj Dalmatinac’s signature leaves, fruit and swirls. Inside, light filters through the richly colored stained glass of the large rose window above the north entrance. On our return to the ship for lunch, most chose to stroll the narrow side streets and alleys, perfectly designed to provide shelter from the wind.
Although predicted to calm in the late afternoon, the winds continued to blow, so we opted to remain at the dock and alter our plans slightly. National Geographic Expert Grace Fielder gave a wonderful program on The Myth of Maps, helping us to see how subjective these ostensibly impartial graphics can be. In the late afternoon, our Expedition Leader Tom and our Croatian guide Danijela managed to arrange a fabulous treat. Just a short coach ride away from the industrial port of Sibenik, we entered the rustic village of Kalpic. Here, the Kalpic family produces and sells their own wines and brandies, as well as offering locally produced cheeses, jams, honey, nuts and pickled peppers for sale. Daughter Ivana presented the family’s brandies for tasting, and many of us found the sight nearly as appealing as the taste. Late afternoon light glowed ruby and amber through the bottles, and we sampled tastes of cherry, walnut, herb and carob rakija. Ivana and her sister Anita then invited us to sit at a table laden with platters of prsut, local cheese and olives, bowls of tangy pickled sweet peppers and pitchers of the family’s red wine. We toasted “Plan B”, before returning to the ship for a late evening departure.
