Patmos

We got our first taste of Patmos during the previous evening’s walkabout. Perhaps because the port town was smaller and the streets flatter than Santorini, the shops seemed more accessible. The fused glass was a local specialty; a particular standout was a red plate with a city scene. Another stylized design gallery featured sculpture, utilitarian fused glass (plates, ashtrays, trivets) and striking jewelry in iridescent colors.

The next day at the sacred sites we learned just what a spiritual center Patmos is. Unlike the separation of church and state that we know in the U.S., Ellie’s talk revealed just how intertwined and layered the culture is with diverse religious traditions: ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine.

At St. John’s Cave, we sat in welcome shade overlooking the pristine harbor with the Panorama anchored below. We learned the Orthodox consider the Apostle John to be the author of The Bible book of Revelation, whereas the Roman church believes the gospel of John and the John of Revelation are two different men.

The contrast of the cave’s exterior with its familiar stairways, entrances and bright doors, concealed the impressive dark interior with its elaborate silver olive oil lamps, wall icons and the stone slab where John was believed to have lain while he dreamed the end-of- time visions dictated in Revelation.

The view from the monastery higher up the mountain was even more spectacular with unequalled photo ops. We climbed past the merchants selling postcards, icons, and incense. At the museum Ellie again explained the blending of ethnic and religious cultures shown in the architecture and iconography. The icons are flat so as not to be confused with pagan idols. There was so much to see, we could only hit the highlights of the El Greco, the illuminated manuscripts, jeweled crosses and various gifts to the monastery from rulers all over the empire. We realized our multicultural crew personified the influences on Greece with their Polish, Rumanian, Russian and Egyptian backgrounds.

In the delightful serendipity that rough seas often bring, we wound up at Skhoinousa Island with just a few tavernas and stores and beach time promised for tomorrow. After an evening walk, the climax of the day was a showing of Zorba the Greek.