Ithaki, Greece

Like Odysseus nearly 3 millennia before us, we set foot on the shores of Ithaka (Ithaki) today. Although Homer described it as “a rocky, severe island, unsuited for horses, but not so wretched, despite its small size”, this verdant island is part of the Ionian group, and receives nearly twice the rainfall of the Aegean islands. The hillsides are covered with typical Mediterranean maquis vegetation, looking lush to our eyes despite the fact that all the shrubs are very well drought adapted.

After several busy days off the ship, we slept in today and spent a relaxed morning anchored in one of Ithaki’s beautiful bays. After a little coffee and light breakfast, several of us dove in for a refreshing morning swim in the relatively warm, hyper-saline Ionian Sea. Others opted to get a little exercise, taking a kayak to explore the bay and experience a little solitude. In the late morning, we gathered in the lounge to hear Grace’s final presentation, this one on the Fourth Crusade and its importance in the history of Western civilization.

For the afternoon, we repositioned to the island’s main town on Vathí, and set out for a scenic drive up to the Orthodox monastery at the summit of Mt. Neriton. As we drove, our guides Sofia and Eleni painted vivid pictures of Odysseus’ adventures, pointing out sites such as the cave where Odysseus stowed his treasure from the Phoenicians. At the top of the mountain, we saw a sweeping vista of the entire south end of the island, and appreciated the quiet of this small sanctuary. Beautiful icons adorned the walls of the basilica, and jewel-colored light filtered through the stained glass windows. On our way back downhill, we stopped briefly to photograph the local goat herd standing tip-toe on tiny rock ledges. A stop at a 17th century Orthodox church and the quaint village of Stavros rounded out our afternoon.

We returned to Vathí in the late afternoon, just as many of the shops were re-opening after siesta. Some of us chose to shop, while others sat at a waterfront café watching sailboats enter the harbor and people on the street. In the late afternoon, we returned to Panorama for a special Greek treat of grilled octopus and ouzo, followed by a delicious Greek buffet dinner. An evening stroll on the waterfront ended this beautiful first day in Greece.