Durres, Kruje & Tirane, Albania
Our anchor was in Durres, a major port that, during the Roman Empire, served as the starting point along the Via Ignatia which crossed the Balkans to Constantinople. As we rode the bus from Durres across the countryside, our guides Adrian and Edvin provided the historical context of present day Albania. After decades of isolation under the strongman Enver Hoxer, Albania's path of economic and political development has been a rocky one. The pyramid schemes of 1996-97 left the country in economic chaos, but it has been on the road to recovery (thanks to both foreign investment and Albanian nationals returning from work abroad).
Signs of economic progress were visible in the new construction of the commercial district. Accordingly the landscape was one of contrasts with sheep and cows grazing in fields next to the modern gas stations and the Mother Theresa International Airport. From the verdant pastures of the lowlands we climbed up the pine-covered mountains to Kruje, the old Albanian capitol. There we visited the Skanderbeg museum, housed in the castle of George Kastrioti, the national hero. Taken to Istanbul to serve the Sultan as part of the practice of devirshme (the child tax), he rose through the ranks and distinguished himself in battle. Once back in the Balkans in a position of authority, he renounced Islam and took up the cause of his native Albania. This wily renegade successfully defended Kruje from multiple attacks by the Ottoman Turks during the 15th century through both his military prowess and diplomatic ingenuity (he forged alliances with Naples and Venice). I have to confess that we had no convincing answer to our guide's question as to why there was yet another movie about Robin Hood being released this summer, but not one about Skanderbeg. One of Skanderbeg's contributions to Kruje was his requirement that all newlywed couples plant an olive tree which explains their abundance so high up in the mountains.
We also visited the Ethnographic Museum, a small gem in this nest of eagles (the meaning of Albanian word for their nation “Shqiperia”). It is a lovingly preserved 18th century compound that consists of an orchard, garden, forge, olive press and distillery. The caretaker carefully explained in self-taught English the use of all the implements and demonstrated the old methods of food production. The living quarters on the second floor were laid out in the traditional manner of an Islamic household with a separate guest room for entertaining male visitors and “harem” for the women. There was also a small hamam (bath house). A number of traditional folk costumes for both Muslim and Christian were on display, including some particularly fine examples of wedding outfits richly embroidered with silk and seed pearls.
Next we had time to explore the cobblestone alleyways of the Kruje Bazaar. Amidst the expected souvenirs the discerning eye could spot some extraordinary finds: silver jewelry from the Ottoman period, bronze oil lamps in the fanciful shapes of goats, pigs and ducks, hand embroidered vests and even a silver cigarette case with a portrait of the Russian poet Alexander Pushkin engraved on the front and one of his verses on the back. (One can only speculate what story lay behind how this particular artifact found its way to Kruje!). As we passed by several of the shops selling textiles and rugs, we could observe women at work at their looms that were remarkably similar to those we had just seen in the Ethnographic Museum.
We then rode down to the new capitol of Tirane which is in the midst of a face lift: sober Soviet-style apartment buildings have been painted in riotous colors and the main square is being completely renovated. Lunch locally was a festive affair with a variety of national dishes that looked familiar but tasted exotic: meatballs blanketed with savory herbs, meat filets bathed in diverse sauces (lemon, piquant tomato as well as a rich cream), grilled chicken, a bubbling hot rustic stew, Albanian-style bruschetta, tomato and fresh mozzarella-like cheese (attesting to the Italian influence) accompanied by copious amounts of delicious local beer, wine and mineral water. An Albanian folk group performed traditional songs and dances with such enthusiasm that a number of us joined in a spirited horo (a Balkan round dance).
On our way back to the port, Adrian our guide took us to see the Roman amphitheater which is surrounded by walls that reflect multiple layers of influence: Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian. The galleries there will have to wait for a future visit for it was time to return to the Panorama.
