Durres, Kruje & Tirane, Albania
Today we entered the third country of our voyage and saw a completely different aspect of the Balkans, in Albania. A small, enigmatic country, Albania has a rich history which mirrors that of nearly all the countries of the Eastern Mediterranean, from the ancient cultures of Illyria, Greece and Rome, through the Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman periods. Its modern history however, has been markedly different from its neighbors. After World War II, Albania entered a 45 year-long period of nearly total isolation, under the regime of Enver Hoxha. In the 1990s, the nascent democracy entered a period of “free” or market economy, with somewhat disastrous results. Corruption and pyramid schemes wracked the country, with many Albanians losing their entire life savings. We heard from our guides of the countless Albanians who have emigrated from their homeland, in search of a more stable economic situation, and hoping for a better life. What impressed many of us, though, was the resilience and pride of the people that have remained. Today we had the opportunity to bridge a cultural gap, and to meet individual human beings whose circumstances of birth were far different from our own. We were reminded of our immense good fortune, as we shared smiles, stories and songs with our hosts.
Disembarking Panorama in the modern port of Durres, we boarded buses for our day’s excursion to both the medieval and modern capitals of the country. In the old capital of Kruje, we visited two wonderful small museums, one dedicated to Albania’s national hero, Skenderbeg, and the other depicting life in rural 18th and 19th century Albania. Local guides led us through both, adding colorful commentary to the exhibits. After the museums, we wandered into the town’s medieval bazaar, finding exquisite filigree jewelry, hand woven rugs and antique olive oil lamps alongside kitschy souvenirs.
Back aboard the buses, we traveled to the modern capital of Tirane, where we were treated to a lunch of traditional Albanian dishes, complete with wine, music and dancing. After lunch, feeling newly fortified, most of us opted to continue our exploration, with a short bus tour of Tirane’s main boulevard and then a walking tour of the Byzantine walls and Roman amphitheater of Durres. A Greek, and then Roman, colony in Antiquity, Durres holds many undiscovered secrets. We began at one of the Venetian towers, walked along the remains of the city walls and then entered the amphitheater. Descending into the tunnels and galleries, we saw a lovely mosaic from the Roman Era, along with a few well-preserved Roman arches.
Back at the ship in the late afternoon, we rested a bit and then gathered in the lounge for a discussion of the events leading up to the dissolution of the former Republic of Yugoslavia and the geological history of the region. A delicious dinner was enlivened by thoughtful discussion of our day and anticipation of tomorrow.
