Sarande & Porto Palermo, Albania
It was a calm night and we had a fine ride onboard the Panorama on our way to the seaside town of Sarande. Our arrival was on schedule and we were soon cleared into the port and ready for the day. Shortly after breakfast we boarded our coaches to make our way to the Butrint archaeological site. The buses slowly wound through Sarande and then southward towards the Albania, Greece border. We saw signs of the recent building boom in this region. Some of these buildings were legal structures in varied stages of completion while others were deemed illegal and then demolished by the government.
After a bit of a bumpy ride we reached Butrint, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is slowly being excavated to reveal the centuries of ruins beneath the soil and rock in the area. We were the first group of the day to pass through the gates so we had it to ourselves with the assistance of our local guides. Many of us discussed what other ruins might be waiting to be discovered beneath our feet or the surrounding trees. We saw remains of Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman Turk civilizations. Many of these structures were built one on top of the other, side by side or sometimes they were intertwined which makes this a unique place. Butrint is only partially excavated so it offers a nice mix of history and natural beauty.
We enjoyed them both as we wandered through the amphitheater, inspected the baptistery and toured the cathedral as we climbed to the highest point for a view. The top of Butrint was once an acropolis which then became a Venetian fort and eventually a Turkish fortification. On our way back to the ship we detoured to the Ottoman castle Lekuris which also happens to have a restaurant and a lookout high above the port of Sarande. Snacks and refreshments were available as well as a stunning view of the surrounding area. We returned to the ship for lunch and were underway northbound for an afternoon at a more remote destination.
After a short siesta the ship arrived at Porto Palermo passing by the walls of Ali Pasha’s castle. Porto Palermo was once a military installation which is slowly giving way to local and foreign visitors wishing to explore the area. Upon arrival there were some negotiations as to the availability of the pier but these were concluded and we were permitted to go ahead with most of our plans. Some guests chose to kayak and swim off of the stern of the Panorama and they were greeted with clear, calm waters. Some felt that the water was cold while others felt that it was just right. This will remain up for debate. Another group of guests went up to Ali Pasha’s castle to inspect the layout. A local caretaker took them around this intriguing building and told them stories from its heyday.
The kayaks were put away, the swim step secured and the castle visitors came back aboard just before we departed for Ithaka. Greece is ready for us and we don’t want to keep her waiting.
