Nafplion, Greece
This morning we woke up at the port of Nafplion on the Peloponnese Peninsula. Its delightful location near the head of the Argolic Gulf and its splendid examples of late medieval military architecture make it a very attractive town.
After breakfast we set off to explore the area of Argolis, which is one of the most important parts of the country, with a continuous presence in all historical periods since Stone Age to modern times. The morning was dedicated to the Bronze Age of Mycenaean times, of which Argolis was a stronghold. We drove from Nafplion to Mycenae passing by the Cyclopean fortification of Tiryns, legendary birthplace of Herakles and the base of operations for his labours.
Traversing the orange orchards of Argolis we arrived at Mycenae, the kingdom of Agamemnon, the leader of the Greeks in the war of Troy. The citadel, the residence of the kings, stands on an almost isolated hill surrounded by massive walls. The impressive main gate is decorated with a monumental relief depicting a pillar supported by two lions whose heads have disappeared. This was perhaps the badge of the city or of its royal house. Going through the gate we saw the royal cemetery that Heinrich Schliemann excavated, finding all the golden items that are now displayed at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.
The Royal Road, a ramp climbing uphill, brought us to the palace, of which only the throne room survived. We continued to the back of the citadel to see the wall and descending stairs; we also saw sally ports and the postern gate. Before leaving Mycenae we also visited the Treasury of Atreus, a monumental beehive tomb built into the slop of a hillside. The tomb is overwhelming, and most of us had never seen something so impressive.
After Mycenae we drove to Nemea, situated north in another little valley, celebrated today for its wine. Here Herakles slew the Nemean lion. In ancient times there was a sanctuary here dedicated to Zeus. Every two years the Nemean Games, one of the four great Panhellemic festivals, were celebrated here. The stadium is one of the best preserved in Greece, with a vaulted entrance still in place. Here our teams raced a one-stadium race and our teams got an olive wreath as a prize. After the games were over we returned to the ship for lunch and we were later transferred to the lovely beach of Karothonas to enjoy a swim.
Later in the afternoon we explored Palamidi, a fortress of the 18th century. Standing on the summit of an almost inaccessible rock, it commands the whole of the Argolid. The complex fortification consists of bastions and ramparts built by Venetians. The bolder of us walked down the thousand-some steps of the fortress.
After dinner a long walk to explore the beautiful town of Nafplion, the first capital of Greece, ended our day nicely. This is a town which offers history along with beautiful and interesting shopping opportunities, since it is an artist’s town. We experienced its relaxed, laid-back atmosphere, the outdoor cafes, the children playing in the square until late in the evening, a good gelato and an encounter with the locals. A beautiful full day came to its end. Kali-nichta.
