Bartholomew & Santiago Islands

The light was low and warm as it struck the flanks of the barren island of Bartholomew this morning. But the draw of seeing the archipelago from a bird’s-eye view had quite a few climbing to the top, the first groups in an aerobic “non-stop-to-the-top”, but the rest following at a more rational pace. Down below a marine turtle female (yes, we knew it was a female by her behaviour) was lying on the beach, resting, perhaps still contemplating whether or not it was her time to lay eggs. After breakfast some of us crossed the sand dune of golden grains to search her beach, but she had gone.

Snorkeling took place at dead low tide. So low that the black-striped salemas in schools, with their lowered ceiling, had less space to escape the penguins, streamer hogfish and others who endlessly marauded through their ranks.

The afternoon started on the black volcanic ash beach of Puerto Egas, on the western coastline of Santiago Island. Sea lion pups are popping out at this time of year, so nursing pups and their mothers were the theme of the excursion along the coastline. Every season here in the islands seems like the best season. I can say with all honesty that right now is the best. However I’ll also say the same later on in the year, probably!

We have been so fortunate this week in all our experiences and sightings! It’s been a remarkable New Year’s expedition, a good omen for the future, I’m thinking.