Mother Nature turned a new page for us in her book of wonders today. We started out the morning with a visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station, where scientists work on conservation programs including growth in captivity of the endangered giant tortoises, the beloved symbol of the Galapagos. Our tour of the hatchery led us past the young tortoises, including precious tiny, month-old babies to massive adult specimens (among them, famous Lonesome George, who has not desired female companionship for several decades). Lindblad planned our visit perfectly to coincide with the feeding of six giant domed-shaped tortoises. These "E.T." look-alikes were busy chomping at leguminous leaves -- they are fed three times a week only.

After a delightful lunch at Altair, a picturesque highland restaurant (plus a swim in their pool and a volleyball game), some in our group visited a pair of huge pit craters, Los Gemelos, which are surrounded by Scalesia forest. From there, it was on to El Rancho Mariposa, a ranch in the route of the tortoises' migrations. What a thrill it was to see these noble creatures in the wild! One was more than 100 years old and weighed some 300 pounds, according to Emma Ridley, our naturalist, who is in the photo with the sign that says "Danger, crossing tortoises." As we were getting ready to leave, we saw another awesome sight: exquisite, jewel-like vermilion flycatchers mating on an African tulip tree! "The highlight of the trip so far" said fellow expeditioner Barbara Merwin of Barrington, Ill. "Spectacular!" said David Royce of St. Louis, Mo. We couldn't agree more!