Bratislava

On our first morning aboard the River Cloud, we had a copious and leisurely breakfast while passing through the Gabcikovo Lock, the first lock of our voyage. As we sailed toward our next destination, we gathered in the comfortable lounge for a lecture on “The Habsburgs and the Holy Roman Empire,” by Lindblad historian David Barnes, followed by a shorter lecture on “The Coffeehouses of Central Europe,” by National Geographic historian, Sharon Hudgins—all in preparation for our visit to Vienna the next day.

But first we made our way to Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, the second of five countries on our itinerary. After docking at Bratislava midday, we left the River Cloud for a guided historical tour around the city center, while a hardy few of our group accompanied Ines, our Wellness Specialist, on a strenuous hike up the steep hill to the massive 15th-century stone fortress, the Bratislava Castle that guards the Danube and overlooks the city.

Located near the Austrian, Hungarian, and Czech borders, Bratislava is the largest city in Slovakia, with a population of 450,000. The history of Bratislava reaches back 4,000 years to the early settlements in this area. The region was subsequently populated by Celts, Germanic tribes, Romans, Avars, and Slavs. Reflecting the shifting borders and allegiances of the European past, Bratislava has also been named Pressburg (in the German language) and Poszony (in Hungarian) when it was the capital of Hungary during the Turkish occupation of that country in the 16th and 17th centuries.

After our guided tour of the city, some of our group accompanied David Barnes to visit the interior of the archbishop’s palace, with its impressive collection of English tapestries. Another contingent joined Sharon Hudgins for a walk to Bratislava’s old covered market to taste burciak, a bubbly, yeasty drink of freshly pressed grape juice in the process of becoming wine—a seasonal specialty during the grape harvest in this part of Central Europe. The next stop was at an old-fashioned café on the main square, where we all indulged in big cups of dark hot chocolate, so thick it could be eaten with a spoon.

Our excursion to Bratislava ended back on board the River Cloud, with Captain Harry Ripson’s Welcome Reception in the lounge, complete with champagne and caviar. After the captain formally introduced us to the ship’s officers, we listened to a musical performance by Afrodite, a local group of female musicians (piano, flute, violin, viola, and cello), who played several light classical pieces and popular show tunes.

The evening concluded with a sumptuous 5-course meal by chef Ringo Karsch and his excellent kitchen staff—the perfect beginning to our 8-day voyage on the elegant River Cloud.