It was an Alaskan morning with clouds low and threatening drizzle (if drizzle can be threatening). But that didn't stop the arrival of our guest on board from Elfin Cove, originally called the "Gunk Hole." Mary Jo explained that it was founded by Ernie Swanson in the 1930's, and named for its safe harbor in rough weather. It is located on the northwestern corner of Chichagof Island, and its only protection from the oftentimes blasting gales of the open ocean are a few smallish islands, one of which is George Island, our afternoon destination. When outsiders started to visit, the general consensus was that "Elfin", the name of Ernie's boat, was a better name to be known by. About 17 residents stay year-round, but the summer months bring others, many who come for the sportfishing and stay in the lodges of Elfin Cove. The entire community is connected by boardwalks, giving it a light air, an aerial town, an elfin feel. They finally had to put a fence over their water tanks up the hill to keep the river otters out.
Just standing on the float dock, waiting for another Zodiac to make its run from the ship, I saw a humpback whale cruise the coastline just outside the harbor. It's a different life, not for everyone (thank goodness they must say in Elfin Cove). The floatplanes bring in supplies, at 41 cents a pound. They shop carefully in the Cove. In winter the planes are sometimes unable to land for weeks at a time because of the weather. Juneau is a 35-minute and $100 airfare away. One of the most interesting buildings in town is the first on the right as you climb the ramp from the float-dock. The door is always unlocked, but a sign pinned to the outside asks everyone to please keep it closed (wildlife looking for shelter in the winter? Cold wind coming through? Rain?). Inside are hundreds of books. Paperback books, hardback books, pamphlets, magazines; on bookshelves, on a table (spines up for easier reading of their titles). Spilling out of cardboard boxes; sliding onto the floor. One can take as many as one wants, and drop off as many if so inclined. William peruses the shelves in his on-going quest for information, to temporarily satisfy his insatiable appetite for knowledge.
Further down the boardwalk, resident Michael H. (10 yrs.?) is selling his own book. Girl Scout cookies are for sale around the corner in the new museum the community is attempting to start up. Many of us bought our smoked salmon at Patti's F.P. Smokers. We looked, but did not touch the wild Salmonberries growing along the boardwalk, because although their appearance was untamed, the berries are cherished by the residents, their ripening awaited with anticipation. It was a look into a different world.
