George Island, Elfin Cove & Pt. Adolphus

If this morning had a theme, it would be “Life on the Rocks.” Through thick, swirling fog we made way for our morning’s destination of Granite Cove on George Island. While the sun took its time deciding whether or not it would shine for us today, we dispatched our fleet of Zodiacs and kayaks for the shore. As the hikers disappeared into the forest, those who opted for kayaking soon realized that a whole new world was revealing itself – the intertidal universe. Thanks to a very low tide, sections of steep rock walls normally under water were exposed, allowing us long, curious looks into every nook and cranny. What we found was incredible! The creatures’ colors were stunning – deep purple or snazzy orange ochre stars hugged the rocks, cruising for mussels. Brilliant red cup corals dangled beside dripping green anemones. When underwater, these organisms feed by extending tentacles into the water, capturing whatever food may pass by. Exposed by the low tide though, their feeding was put on hold for a few hours until they were covered by the tide once more.

Paddling amongst the massive strands of bull kelp, we followed the rocky cliffs into crevices and around corners until we came to a massive arch – a perfect photo op! Paddling back to the protected cove we passed through what was dubbed the “Valley of the Anemones.” As eagles cried out above, our attention was drawn away from the water world below. We spied the eagles’ nest far above, built into a tree right on the rocky edge.

Returning to the Sea Bird, we soon learned that not only anemones and sea stars thrive on the rocks out here, but a small fishing community does too. Mayor Mary Jo Lord Wild joined us for a delicious on-deck lunch, and then talked to us about living year-round in the small fishing community of Elfin Cove. With just 12 permanent residents, the population swells to hundreds during the summer fishing season. Commercial fisherman and sport fishers alike exist in the tiny town literally built on top of a rocky island. After lunch we hopped into the Zodiacs once again, this time for a chance to explore the unique community connected entirely by boardwalks.

Back on board, we cruised through sinuous Inian Pass in the afternoon sunlight. As we made way for Pt. Adolphus, a known humpback whale feeding ground, we heard the third of Stanford Professor Rob Dunbar’s talks. Just as Rob finished his presentation on “Climate Change,” the call came over the speakers: “Whales!” Gathered on the bow, we listened to the giant exhalations as the whales surfaced. With the help of the hydrophone, we listened to and wondered about the calls echoing through the water. Surrounded by wisps of silvery fog and a golden late-afternoon glow, we absorbed the richness of the moment.

As afternoon slipped into evening, we gathered in the lounge for recap. Carol enthusiastically displayed the results of a plankton-tow made earlier at Pt. Adolphus amongst the whales. Loosely translated, plankton means “free-floating” or “wandering.” Looking back over the day’s explorations, it could be said, then, that we spent our day as plankton, wandering in the water with sea stars, anemones, and whales.