Fox Creek, Inian Islands, and Pt. Adolphus

We’ve all heard the saying “Home is where the heart is” but today demonstrated that for many creatures in Southeast Alaska, home is where the food is. The smooth, glassy waters of Idaho Inlet afforded us several good looks at rafts of sea otters. Expansive kelp beds line the narrow inlet, supporting crabs and urchins, food for the sea otters.

While hiking in the forest at Fox Creek, many of us followed the well-worn tracks left year after year by brown bears returning to munch on the spring skunk cabbage. This odor-iffic plant helps the bears in their digestion after a winter of dormancy. Those who joined Carol on the “Creature Crawl” explored the shore exposed by a low tide. Here they became acquainted with mussels and sea stars, attempted to play the bull-kelp horns, and even discovered an unknown species of squid that had been partially eaten by a seal or perhaps a Stellar’s sea lion! Squeamish thoughts were pushed aside and the squid was dissected on the spot. The spontaneous scientists signed their names with squid-ink on a handy scrap of paper.

The afternoon presented us with an unusual and exciting opportunity – Zodiac cruises in the Inian Island archipelago. These islands are situated at the intersection of Cross Sound and Icy Strait. The turbulent tidal water swirled all around us, creating dramatic spinning, churning eddies. One of the islands in the midst of these tumultuous waters hosted a small haul-out of Stellar’s sea lions. We watched these mammals as they lounged, lunged, splashed and basked on and around the rocks. We listened fascinated, to their barks, growls, grunts, and groans. Haul outs are frequently found in locations such as this – the upwelling currents created by the mixing tides produce plankton. If plankton are there, you can be sure to find fish feeding on the plankton, and larger creatures, like sea lions, feeding on the fish.

Several cruisers witnessed an amazing display of a male sea lion feeding just in front of the Zodiac. Fish are trapped in the converging waters, becoming easy prey for hungry predators, such as the sea lions. This particular sea lion repeatedly tossed a very large silver salmon at the surface, seeming to tease the gulls hovering in mid-air above. After one last glimpse of the doomed salmon, the sea lion gulped the fish, and dove below the surface.

In the evening, the lounge became our feeding ground as we sampled local treats and Pacific Northwest wines. We sailed towards Pt. Adolphus and humpback whales in the fading silver-gray twilight.