Alert Bay
In the early morning hours the Sea Bird began her slow approach to the community of Alert Bay located on Cormorant Island. Alert Bay is the home of the ‘Namgis clan of the Kwakwaka’wakw people. This community is also considered to be one of the cultural centers for this group of Northwest First Nations people. Deckhands were lined up along the starboard side of the vessel preparing lines for the slow approach to Government Dock located in the center of town. Just slightly to the south was the Kwakwaka’wakw graveyard filled with totem poles all feeling the first rays of sun as it poured over the top of the highest hill on the back of Cormorant Island. As soon as docking was finished, a gangway dropped, we were ready for either a nice mile walk or van ride to the U’Mista Cultural Center and Museum. This cultural center was opened in 1980 and houses one of the finest collections of elaborately carved masks, depicting the Potlatch Ceremony of the Kwakwaka’wakw people. The house front design of this Cultural Center is based on a ‘Namgis Chief’s design (c. 1873) and depicts a Thunderbird and whale. The meaning of the U’Mista as explained to us during breakfast has to do with the return of Potlatch items taken by the Canadian Government in 1921 during a Potlatch given by Dan Cranmer on Village Island. The First Nations people of Alert Bay petitioned the Canadian Government for the return of those items for many years. The Canadian officials finally agreed to return the confiscated Potlatch items on the condition that a museum is built to house these precious ceremonial items.
“In earlier days, people were sometimes taken captive by raiding parties. When they were returned to their homes, either through payment of ransom or by a retaliatory raid, they were said to have “u’mista.” The return of our treasures from distant museums is a form of u’mista.”
“When one’s heart is glad, he gives away gifts. It was given to us by our creator, to be our way of doing things, to be our way of rejoicing, we who are Indian. The potlatch was given to us to be our way of expressing joy.”
-Agnes Alfred, Alert Bay 1980
Leaving this fine museum, or box of treasures, as Agnes Alfred and many other elders of Alert Bay call the U’Mista, we made a short journey through the community of Alert Bay heading for the eastern side of Cormorant Island, and the traditional site of the community Big House. Invited inside, we were seated on one side of a large rectangular house that could hold as many as 1500 people. The central fire had been lit, a table had been set for our feast and the chiefs and important signers were seated at the drum log, all in preparation for an exhibition of Cedar Bark and Peace dances traditionally given during a Potlatch. Each corner of the House and the adjoining beams covered in rich carvings depicting both the natural and supernatural beings that are the fabric of Kwakwaka ‘wakw Potlatch tradition. The stage was set, and storytelling was about to begin.
Andrea and Barbara Cranmer, sisters and founders of the T’sasala Cultural Group were our hosts, greeting and giving a detailed explanation about both music and dances. With an opening from the drum log, the smallest Hamat’sa dancers entered the floor and began circling the floor. This dance is a traditional part of the Cedar Bark dances and often seen at the beginning of a Potlatch. During the next hour, we were gifted with a visual and auditory experience of both dance and song as the members of this cultural group shared a small part of their rich culture with us. One of the Peace dances culminated in the display of a treasure that entered from the front door of the Big House, signifying a gift that may come from the forest but, in this case the Bak’was was coming from the beach where he was looking for cockles. A small boy, covered in fur and Hemlock bows represented this wild man of the forest, the leader of a ghost tribe particularly drowned souls, who circled the floor slowly, hiding his face, a bilious shade of green carved wood. The Bak’was is said to be very shy and does not want much contact with humans so as he dances he watches closely, as we watched him lifting his head, hiding and then slowly slinking off the floor returning once again to the depths of the forest.
The last dance was a fun dance where we were all invited to join the members of T’sasala Cultural group and circle the central fire in a dance of friendship and celebration. At the end of this dance the leaders, drummers, singers and dancers of all ages including two chiefs all stepped forward and introduced themselves. The Chiefs raised their hands in a traditional salute to our group, both audience and tribal members continued standing as gifts were presented by Captain Kalbach of the Sea Bird, to say thank you for the honor of being able to be witnesses to this sharing of culture on this special day.
In the early morning hours the Sea Bird began her slow approach to the community of Alert Bay located on Cormorant Island. Alert Bay is the home of the ‘Namgis clan of the Kwakwaka’wakw people. This community is also considered to be one of the cultural centers for this group of Northwest First Nations people. Deckhands were lined up along the starboard side of the vessel preparing lines for the slow approach to Government Dock located in the center of town. Just slightly to the south was the Kwakwaka’wakw graveyard filled with totem poles all feeling the first rays of sun as it poured over the top of the highest hill on the back of Cormorant Island. As soon as docking was finished, a gangway dropped, we were ready for either a nice mile walk or van ride to the U’Mista Cultural Center and Museum. This cultural center was opened in 1980 and houses one of the finest collections of elaborately carved masks, depicting the Potlatch Ceremony of the Kwakwaka’wakw people. The house front design of this Cultural Center is based on a ‘Namgis Chief’s design (c. 1873) and depicts a Thunderbird and whale. The meaning of the U’Mista as explained to us during breakfast has to do with the return of Potlatch items taken by the Canadian Government in 1921 during a Potlatch given by Dan Cranmer on Village Island. The First Nations people of Alert Bay petitioned the Canadian Government for the return of those items for many years. The Canadian officials finally agreed to return the confiscated Potlatch items on the condition that a museum is built to house these precious ceremonial items.
“In earlier days, people were sometimes taken captive by raiding parties. When they were returned to their homes, either through payment of ransom or by a retaliatory raid, they were said to have “u’mista.” The return of our treasures from distant museums is a form of u’mista.”
“When one’s heart is glad, he gives away gifts. It was given to us by our creator, to be our way of doing things, to be our way of rejoicing, we who are Indian. The potlatch was given to us to be our way of expressing joy.”
-Agnes Alfred, Alert Bay 1980
Leaving this fine museum, or box of treasures, as Agnes Alfred and many other elders of Alert Bay call the U’Mista, we made a short journey through the community of Alert Bay heading for the eastern side of Cormorant Island, and the traditional site of the community Big House. Invited inside, we were seated on one side of a large rectangular house that could hold as many as 1500 people. The central fire had been lit, a table had been set for our feast and the chiefs and important signers were seated at the drum log, all in preparation for an exhibition of Cedar Bark and Peace dances traditionally given during a Potlatch. Each corner of the House and the adjoining beams covered in rich carvings depicting both the natural and supernatural beings that are the fabric of Kwakwaka ‘wakw Potlatch tradition. The stage was set, and storytelling was about to begin.
Andrea and Barbara Cranmer, sisters and founders of the T’sasala Cultural Group were our hosts, greeting and giving a detailed explanation about both music and dances. With an opening from the drum log, the smallest Hamat’sa dancers entered the floor and began circling the floor. This dance is a traditional part of the Cedar Bark dances and often seen at the beginning of a Potlatch. During the next hour, we were gifted with a visual and auditory experience of both dance and song as the members of this cultural group shared a small part of their rich culture with us. One of the Peace dances culminated in the display of a treasure that entered from the front door of the Big House, signifying a gift that may come from the forest but, in this case the Bak’was was coming from the beach where he was looking for cockles. A small boy, covered in fur and Hemlock bows represented this wild man of the forest, the leader of a ghost tribe particularly drowned souls, who circled the floor slowly, hiding his face, a bilious shade of green carved wood. The Bak’was is said to be very shy and does not want much contact with humans so as he dances he watches closely, as we watched him lifting his head, hiding and then slowly slinking off the floor returning once again to the depths of the forest.
The last dance was a fun dance where we were all invited to join the members of T’sasala Cultural group and circle the central fire in a dance of friendship and celebration. At the end of this dance the leaders, drummers, singers and dancers of all ages including two chiefs all stepped forward and introduced themselves. The Chiefs raised their hands in a traditional salute to our group, both audience and tribal members continued standing as gifts were presented by Captain Kalbach of the Sea Bird, to say thank you for the honor of being able to be witnesses to this sharing of culture on this special day.
