Tracy Arm, Alaska
A clear and calm morning for the start of our exploration of coastal Southeast Alaska. With Juneau in the rear-view mirror, the good ship Sea Bird headed south and took a left turn into Tracy Arm, a beautiful 22-mile long fjord with steep sloping glacier carved granite walls and two tidewater glaciers.
The early risers were treated to a glimpse of a black bear on the shore as we cruised up the fjord. This animal did not linger, but hopes were raised hopes of further encounters. Upon reaching the head of the fjord the Zodiacs were launched to further explore this scenic location.
The large amounts of freshly calved ice was a clear indication that the glaciers had been active recently. On this ice many harbour seals were hauled out with their pups. The seals seek out these ice-choked waters at this time of year to give birth and wean their pups in an intensive two-week period. The female seals come into oestrus soon after pupping, so many males are also in the area waiting to mate with receptive females. A commotion in the water turned out, on closer inspection, to be a pair of males locked in battle for territory and, therefore, females. One male had a secure grip on the neck of the other and as they wrestled they seemed almost oblivious to the band of spectators. Blood was drawn and it seemed that the weaker animal headed towards one of the Zodiacs, perhaps for assistance or refuge? However, neither was found and after swimming under the boat the fight was over. A couple of flipper slaps on the surface from the victor sent the loser on his way. Relative calm descended once more on the scene and we were left to contemplate the other splendours of Tracy Arm: waterfalls, forests, seabirds and tons of ice calving from the glaciers!
The day continued in extraordinary style. A black bear with two cubs on the beach, bald eagles fishing, Dall’s porpoise bow-riding and a breaching humpback whale. Could a day in Alaska be any more full? We have five more to find out.
A clear and calm morning for the start of our exploration of coastal Southeast Alaska. With Juneau in the rear-view mirror, the good ship Sea Bird headed south and took a left turn into Tracy Arm, a beautiful 22-mile long fjord with steep sloping glacier carved granite walls and two tidewater glaciers.
The early risers were treated to a glimpse of a black bear on the shore as we cruised up the fjord. This animal did not linger, but hopes were raised hopes of further encounters. Upon reaching the head of the fjord the Zodiacs were launched to further explore this scenic location.
The large amounts of freshly calved ice was a clear indication that the glaciers had been active recently. On this ice many harbour seals were hauled out with their pups. The seals seek out these ice-choked waters at this time of year to give birth and wean their pups in an intensive two-week period. The female seals come into oestrus soon after pupping, so many males are also in the area waiting to mate with receptive females. A commotion in the water turned out, on closer inspection, to be a pair of males locked in battle for territory and, therefore, females. One male had a secure grip on the neck of the other and as they wrestled they seemed almost oblivious to the band of spectators. Blood was drawn and it seemed that the weaker animal headed towards one of the Zodiacs, perhaps for assistance or refuge? However, neither was found and after swimming under the boat the fight was over. A couple of flipper slaps on the surface from the victor sent the loser on his way. Relative calm descended once more on the scene and we were left to contemplate the other splendours of Tracy Arm: waterfalls, forests, seabirds and tons of ice calving from the glaciers!
The day continued in extraordinary style. A black bear with two cubs on the beach, bald eagles fishing, Dall’s porpoise bow-riding and a breaching humpback whale. Could a day in Alaska be any more full? We have five more to find out.
