Petersburg and Thomas Bay

During breakfast the ship was tied up within the inner harbor of Petersburg, our destination for the entire morning. The naturalists led groups to see purse seiners, tenders and other fishing boats of all shapes and sizes that lay in their slips. Beneath them, an abundance of delicate marine invertebrates clung to the pilings and dock. The most conspicuous creature was the plumose anemone, looking somewhat like a piece of lacy branched cauliflower on a section of white or orange garden hose. There was plenty of time to wander through this important fishing community on foot or to explore by bicycle. The Sons of Norway Hall dominated the other structures along the streets where the Scandinavian heritage was still quite evident. Many folks opted for a walk on nearby Kupreanof Island. The well-maintained path climbed gradually through the trees to a fascinating muskeg, or peat bog. This open habitat is home to insect-eating plants and dwarfed trees that emerge from a sodden cushion of sphagnum moss. Small ponds and tufts of cotton-grass dotted the landscape.

Luckily Andy Szabo, a whale researcher, was in town and agreed to join us for lunch. We tied his boat to the stern and continued on our way. He gave an informative presentation about his work here in Southeast Alaskan waters with the Alaska Whale Foundation and answered questions about humpbacks. He then left us and the Sea Bird behind to return to his research vessel.

On the way to Cascade Creek where we planned to spend the afternoon, a lone black bear caught our attention as it grazed on a grassy shoreline. The Captain’s slow approach allowed everyone to get good looks. A short while later the anchor dropped, and we headed for shore. The trail paralleled the fast-moving stream to a crashing waterfall that billowed forth clouds of mist. Several groups ascended huge steps up a steep incline and kept pushing on through beautiful forest to a higher vantage point. Kayakers and Zodiac riders absorbed the scenery from a different perspective. Long strands of pale green lichens hung like icicles from the lush green conifers. A harbor seal poked its head up to view the strange craft within its realm. Just as everyone started to return to the Sea Bird, the gray overcast gave way to a gentle rain. It was the perfect time to warm up and join others in the lounge for wine tasting. Kim Heacox, our National Geographic representative, shared the story of John Muir and the little dog, Stikine. Then we shifted to the dining room for a dinner of local Dungeness crab and tasty ribs. Later in the evening, humpbacks appeared. It was a fantastic ending to another great day.