Isla San Jose and Isla San Francisco

Some of the best days in the Sea of Cortez are the ones that don’t go as planned. Today even had an unusually spectacular beginning – a sunrise green flash preceded by a blue flash. Then thanks to a high pressure system we were able to head into Punta Colorada, a snug cove on Isla San Jose nestled amid multicolored sandstone cliffs. As we set out hiking we spotted a fascinating insect called a tarantula hawk, actually a large wasp that paralyzes tarantulas with its stinger and carries the stricken arachnid to its nest as food for its young – a reminder that sometimes nature is red in tooth and claw. Hiking farther up the arroyo we were dazzled by the effects of recent rains that have turned the desert green and enabled many plants to flower. Butterflies were out in force and one group saw a desert iguana make a run for its hiding place. Back on the beach we marveled at fossil whale and sea turtle bones dating from the Miocene some 20 million years ago.

Because of strong winds after lunch we abandoned plans for a landing on the peninsula and instead sailed for a beautiful protected white sand beach on Isla San Francisco where we were greeted by brown pelicans, eared grebes, and American oystercatchers. After a glorious hour of kayaking, some of us went tidepooling while others hiked. The tidepoolers reaped a bounty of sea stars, brittle stars, sea cucumbers, and even a live cowrie, while the hikers found a number of plants we had not seen previously, to say nothing of the fat chuckwalla and scorpion. As the sun reddened the sky and sank behind the Sierra Giganta on Baja California, the last Zodiac carried us slowly back to the Sea Bird and a sumptuous dinner.

But the day was not over, for we ended the evening with a cozy bonfire on the beach under a velvet black sky blazing with stars. With any luck, tomorrow won’t go as planned, either.