Isla Carmen & Isla Santa Catalina

Whew – what a day! Dolphins, remoras, cacti, hummingbirds, rattlesnakes, and a sprinkling of rain. Yes, rain in the desert – a rare and wonderful treat that brought out all sorts of wildlife during our afternoon excursion...but I’m getting ahead of myself.

Our day began with a spectacular sunrise of orange, red and purple, followed by an exuberant encounter with excessive numbers of energetic long-beaked common dolphins. Over the course of the morning we encountered thousands of these cetaceans in several groups. Mothers and calves leapt and dove side by side and dozens of animals approached the ship to hone their bow-riding abilities. Many of the dolphins bore remoras, a type of fish that suctions onto larger organisms and feeds on the leftovers and debris associated with sloppy eating habits. To top off this perfect scene, the rising light revealed the layered peaks of the Sierra de la Giganta and Isla Carmen in all their pink, brown, and green glory. Ahhh… Baja!

Eventually, we left the dolphins and began cruising south to Isla Santa Catalina with our eyes peeled for wildlife and our brains primed for new information. Our National Geographic host, Dr. John Francis, did not disappoint us. He presented a fascinating account of his experiences studying Blue Whales using the “Crittercam,” an innovative submersible research tool that incorporates a camera, hydrophone, depth sensor, and more. Like a remora, the Crittercam is attached to the back of a whale using a special suction cup, and then records underwater activities for up to six hours. After an interesting discussion on the feeding and social behaviors of the world’s largest animal we retreated to the dining room for some foraging of our own.

Satiated and ready for a stretch, we dropped the anchor and headed ashore at Bahia Elefante on Isla Santa Catalina for our first taste of the desert proper. A group of stalwart long-hikers crossed the island seeking scratches and a breath-taking view, while the remaining guests searched for wildlife at a more leisurely pace. And wildlife they found: scorpions, woodpeckers, and the endemic rattleless rattlesnake, Crotalus catalinensis, that exists nowhere else in this world. In fact, all nine of Santa Catalina’s reptiles are endemic species that have evolved unique characteristics to fit their isolated home. Much like in the Galápagos, the remote islands of the Gulf of California have served as evolutionary laboratories, and almost every island boasts one or more endemic plants and/or animals.

Finally, the time came for the sun to set and the appetizers to appear. We gathered in the lounge for the Lindblad tradition of ‘re-cap,’ a half hour of reflection on the events and natural history of the day. Our natural history staff discussed the role of pollination corridors, the hidden life of remoras, and the lost rattle of the rattlesnakes accompanied by theatrical enhancement of the younger members of our group. A fitting end to Day One of this fabulous family adventure.