Isla Coronados and Isla Del Carmen, Gulf of California, México

Today we would be exploring the islands of Coronados and Isla Del Carmen located off the coastline of Loreto, in the Gulf of California. Our first stop was at Isla Coronados, which is part of the Loreto Bay National Park, established in 1997. The park forbids trawler and commercial netters for a distance of 35-47 km. off shore along the park’s entire 60 km. length.

Snorkeling boat in place, our brave guests took the plunge. Even though the water was a little on the cool side, it did not prevent our snorkelers from enjoying themselves. Fifty white eyes flashed and disappeared as a school of scissortail damselfish turned in unison. Schooling has great advantage to small fish as the individual fish has less chance of encountering a predator.

King angelfish, with thin threads of bright fluorescent blue outlining the dark navy blue body and orange tails were suspended in small groups above the bottom. Blue and gold snappers spun this way and that, and a graceful mobula ray winged in and out with a quick appearance. Red and pale blue seastars adorned the crusty rock surfaces along with flower and brown urchins. A Panamic green moray eel remained hidden except for the tip of its rounded tail which contrasted well with the white sandy bottom. A very curious lobe-skin puffer was my constant companion and followed close behind.

A feast had been laid out on the bridge deck for us with grilled hamburgers and hot dogs followed by the refreshing taste of local ice cream accompanied by sweet toppings of every kind. Yum!

Our next stop was the bay of Balandra, a protected cove on Isla Del Carmen. The seaside town of Loreto to the west benefited from the salt works on this island where 40,000 tons of salt per year were harvested from a salt basin formed by an extinct volcano crater. This was a perfect spot to lower kayaks and explore the tiny finger-like inlets. Sally lightfoot crabs flashed orange- red carapaces and bubbled at us as we slowly paddled by. The blue color in the shell comes from astaxanthin, a chemical which becomes denatured when heated and turns the shell bright orange-red. A pair of belted kingfishers flew chattering above and a snowy egret wearing what appeared to be yellow slippers, stalked small fish in the shallows. A large school of herring erupted from the smooth surface of the water as they were most likely being pursued by some unseen predator from below. The fleeing herrings appeared several more times and sounded like rain as they cascaded back down to the surface of the water.

Laughter from the beach echoed out over the water as the younger members of our shore party frolicked in the sand. A faded sun slipped over the craggy tops of the Baja peninsula as we headed back to the Sea Bird ending yet another day in the voyage through the Sea of Cortez.