Cabo San Lucas and Gorda Banks

Today was a day of contrast. We awoke near the southern tip of the Baja peninsula with views of the desert clad mountains, and rain! A light rain falling was certainly a surprise, and also quite refreshing. We rounded the granitic spine of Land’s End and the tourist mecca of Cabo San Lucas came into view. We enjoyed the views of magnificent frigatebirds, sea lions, and brown pelicans, while a steady stream of fishing vessels headed out for the days catch.

While some folks chose to go shopping, the rest of us divided ourselves between the ocean and the desert. Many of us visited Pelican Rocks for a plunge into the world below the waves. Schools of surgeonfish, sergeant majors, and chubs surrounded us, and we were dazzled by the colors of the king angels and parrotfish. The rest of the group went amongst the desert plants on a birding walk. Wonderful views were had of Costa’s hummingbirds, lazuli buntings, and a crested caracara. The best find of the walk had to be the scope views of the endemic, grey thrasher, found only in the southern half of the Baja peninsula.

During lunch we pulled anchor, leaving the city life behind, and headed out to Gorda Bank. This offshore seamount is the winter home to a breeding population of humpback whales. We soon were surrounded by whales and then were shocked by two huge splashes. Simultaneous breaching! All eyes focused on one area as two whales continually rose up out of the water and slammed down on their bellies. As if not to be outdone, on the other side of the Sea Bird, six whales surfaced at the same time. We slowly approached this competitive group and observed some amazing interactions. There was much rolling around, lunging, and at one time all six at the surface in a circle. While we never saw any actual intercourse, it is phenomenal that in the last two days we have witnessed the probable mating of two different species of great whale. As the sky turned pink with the sunset, we turned north into the Gulf of California, leaving a humpback tail-slapping us adios.