Gorda Banks and Cabo San Lucas, Baja México

As dawn broke across the Sea Bird’s bow, we soon discovered that we were not alone. The enormous bushy spouts of numerous whales could be seen to port, to starboard, and well, everywhere. We were surrounded by humpback whales. Lots of flipper slapping, some breaching and cavorting at the surface had us trying to imagine what we couldn’t see below. Arching grey bodies followed by massive tail flukes, their backs often appear humped giving the species its common name. Courtship seemed to be the immediate priority on these giant’s agendas at this time of the year. Even though we passed a bait ball of fish, the whales ignored it, for they were not feeding at this time. This fasting period can last up to six months or more.

We lowered the hydrophone and listened to their intimate dialogue. High-pitched squeals and squeaks followed by belches filled the air. Without actually getting into the water, this was as close as we could get to these giants. We spent most of the morning observing the behavior of these behemoths as we journeyed south along the east coast of the Cape Region of the Baja peninsula. Our morning ended with a talk given by one of the Natural History Staff titled “You are what you eat” in preparation for the next day’s activities. We learned that there is no such bird as a ‘seagull,’ that color should not be used to identify a species of bird, and that we will never be able to fly.

By early afternoon, we were tied to the dock in the busy harbor of Cabo San Lucas. Some of the activities offered were snorkeling or birding and shopping. After a short bus ride along the famed “Corridor,” a stretch of road with access to numerous beaches, coves and tidal pools, we arrived at our destination. Playa Chilenos was a delight with its warm sandy beach. Soon, we were greeted by schools of curious yellowtail surgeonfish and Cortes chubs. Mixed schools of graybar grunts, yellow snapper and convict tangs swayed back and forth with the surge while reef cornetfish waited for an opportunity to strike unsuspecting prey. Recent rains had brought out the birds and the flowers of the desert. Most striking were the shiny ribbons of scarlet flowers of the Cochemia cactus.

Our day in Cabo San Lucas ended as we passed by “El Arco,” a rock outcropping located at the southernmost point of the peninsula known as Land’s End. Magnificent frigate birds along with other species of birds adorned the face of this granite structure. A baleful half moon peered down on us from a fading blue sky.