Puerto Gatos and San Francisco Island

The rugged profile of the Sierra de la Giganta in front of us was the perfect setup to start our day at Puerto Gatos, where the Sea Bird anchored shortly after sunrise. A few drops of rain seemed out of place in the desert but reminded us of how precious water is for the hardy animals and plants that call this place home. During our hikes we were able to experience once more the beauty of the desert and marvel at the multiple adaptations that life needs in order to thrive in such a challenging environment. The last rains produced a dramatic transformation on the normally grey appearance of the desert plants. Many were now sporting an abundance of bright green leaves, whose seemingly festive looks somehow seemed out of place. As out of place as a palatial building in the middle of the desert. That is exactly what we saw just south of Puerto Gatos, the remains of the Tembabichi ranch house, built in the early 1900’s by a lucky pearl-diver who collected a great pearl meant for a queen. A pearl that is said to be part now of the United Kingdom’s crown jewels. Almost a century later, only some tales, a decaying building and the older cardón cacti remember more splendid times lived under the shade of La Giganta.

Early in the afternoon, while sailing through the San José channel, we encountered a large group of long-beaked common dolphins - maybe a couple hundred of them, adding a dramatic touch of life to the waters. Their high jumps and other aerial displays while herding a school of baitfish delighted us and set the perfect mood for our own “attack” on a delicious dinner ashore on San Francisco Island. As the sun painted a red sky as it disappeared behind the peninsula, our souls seemed as full as our bellies.