Clarkston, Washington

“Those people has shewn much greater acts of hospitality than we have witnessed from any nation or tribe since we have passed the Rocky Mountains. In short, be it spoken to their immortal honor it is the only act which deserves the appellation of hospitality which we have witnessed in this quarter.” William Clark, May 10, 1806

We awoke this morning to clear skies and a temperature of 40 degrees; fall is in full swing here in Clarkston, Washington, at the confluence of the Clearwater and Snake Rivers. It was just a little more than 201 years ago, on Oct. 10, 1805, that the Corps of Discovery came this way and camped just across the Snake from where the Sea Bird is docked. Today we explored the country around the confluence.

Some of us traveled up the Snake River by jet boat to view the spectacular basalt cliffs and wildlife of Hell’s Canyon, enlivened by bright fall colors. We viewed and photographed stunning scenery, big horn sheep, and Captain Eric catching and releasing a wild steelhead, and enjoyed a morning break at Cache Creek Ranch before lunch at Heller Bar. Along the way, the jet boat captain recounted the life of pioneers on the river and we saw many boats whose crews displayed their catch of steelhead.

Others chose to take the Clearwater Connections trip up the Clearwater River into Nez Perce country with historian Lin Laughy. We visited or observed from the bus many Lewis and Clark camp sites and felt much closer to the members of the Corps when Lin read from the journals on the exact spot where they were written. A major focus of the day was the interaction of the explorers with the Nez Perce, who befriended them, gave them food (which did not, unfortunately, produce good effects on their digestive systems), guided them and kept their horses while they were downriver. As noted above, Clark regarded the Nez Perce as among the most helpful and friendly Indians they encountered. Two of the most significant sites we visited were Canoe Camp, where the Corps made dug-out canoes from Ponderosa pine, and the Treaty Council Camp, where Chief Broken Arm and the Corps made promises of friendship. We also learned survival skills from Lee Hamilton, and demonstrated them by starting fires with flint and steel and hand drills, and braiding cordage from cattail reeds.

At the end of the afternoon we all visited the Nez Perce National Historic Park where we saw exhibits depicting the culture of these people. We returned to the Sea Bird with a better understanding of the key role the Nez Perce played in the success of the Expedition.