Desolation Sound

Captain George Vancouver’s gloomy impression of this remote archipelago in 1792 certainly did not mirror our experiences today. This exquisite collection of islands was a delight to our senses from the first misty close up look at Cassell Lake waterfall to the golden sunset as we departed the paddler’s heaven of Prideux Haven.

Cassell Lake on the west side of Redonda Island is reached by a short steep climb up natural stone steps and a meander through an absolutely enchanting forest. Much of the exposed rocky slope is covered with soft tufts of reindeer lichen, so pale in color it looks like drifts of snow, though that is a rare event indeed in this temperate coastal forest.

With just over 40 inches of rainfall a year, Desolation Sound is tucked well inside the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, which receive as much as 180 inches of rainfall per year! The forest here hosts plants of both the coastal rainforest and the drier east side. The combination of western red cedar, Douglas fir, and salal, commonly found on the wet western side of the coast range are found here in the company of arbutus and manzanita which are species of drier places. Walking through this beautiful wood above the falls brings constant surprises and wonders and leads us to the glassy lake, where a few hardy folks enjoyed a brisk and refreshing swim.

The calm and protected waters of the bay offered excellent kayaking conditions. As this land was long ago carved by glaciers, its surrounding walls are steep and festooned with interesting hanging plants, ferns and lichens. Harbor seals and Bonaparte’s gulls kept us company as well.

Prideux Haven is a collection of small and protected islands in the south part of Desolation Sound where we explored by small boats in the afternoon. Its narrow waterways allowed time to quietly watch a bald eagle perched high in a shore pine, or to sit among thousands and thousands of moon jellyfish pulsing through the slow currents.

Our day was filled to the brim with natural beauty both great and small, and we were blessed with the opportunity to enjoy it at our leisure.