Nez Perce Country

In May of 1806 Lewis and Clark explored the area just below the confluence of the Clearwater and Snake River for a second time, collecting cached supplies and horses that they left in the care of local Nez Perce peoples for their return trip back east. During their time in Clearwater country Meriwether Lewis wrote:

“...our situation was within 40 paces of the river in an extensive level bottom thinly timbered with the long leafed pine. Here we are in the vicinity of the best hunting grounds from the Indian information, are convenient to the salmon which we expect daily and have an excellent pasture for our horse. The hills to the east and north of us are high broken and but partially timbered; the soil is rich and affords fine grass. In short we are compelled to reside a while in this neighborhood for I feel perfectly satisfied with our position...”

This morning the Sea Bird tied up in Clarkson so we could venture out into Clearwater country and explore to make our own observations. Some folks sped away in jet boats down the waters of the Snake River into Hell’s Canyon. While others traveled with Lin Laughy from Clearwater Connections through Nez Perce country.

The jet boats went sixty miles up the Snake River over some impressive rapids. Thanks to the shallow draft and the power of the engines we did not hit any rocks on our way up or down. After an hour the river narrowed and we entered Hell’s Canyon. Our driver’s commentary kept us entertained and he stopped frequently to show us historical spots and wildlife. We had close looks at a golden eagle that was perched on a rock and we spotted some bighorn sheep on the hills above the river. At our turn around spot we saw a ewe and a lamb right down next to the water and we watched them nimbly climb over the steep rocky cliff. The run down the river was more exciting than the way up as our driver ran the rapids with zeal. We stopped at a restaurant on the way down and had a scrumptious lunch.

Using the journals of Lewis and Clark, along with Nez Perce lore, our Clearwater Connection guide Lin led us through a mosaic of sites where the Lewis and Clark Expedition set up campsites, made portages, and plied through woodlands where their expedition halted long enough to construct dug out canoes for their journey home.

Late in the afternoon we all gathered at The Nez Perce National Historic Park in Spalding, Idaho where we all met Rudy Shebala, a horse breeder with the Nez Perce horse program. Ruby is part of a group of horse breeders that organized in the 1990’s to bring back the tradition of appaloosa horse breeding in Nez Perce culture. Using Appaloosa and Akahal’teke horses from Turkmenistan (see photo above), the tribe is trying to revive historical breeding styles.