Ile les Saintes, Guadeloupe

Early this morning, Sea Cloud II anchored off Bourg, principal township of the French Caribbean island of Terre-de-Haut, one of the eight small islands that comprise Les Saintes, a small archipelago that lies some six miles off the main island of Guadeloupe. The islands are all constitutionally part of France, so our morning visit was an opportunity to spend time in the European Community, and spend a few Euros on authentically French pastries and homemade ice cream. It was also a first opportunity for swimming and snorkeling from the beach, or for those with certification, to make use of a local dive boat.

The morning's historical excursion was to another eighteenth-century fortification, rejoicing in the name of Fort Napoleon. Splendidly situated overlooking the harbor and its sea approaches, it was so intimidating that it was never attacked and is thus perfectly preserved. Its grounds contain a botanical garden of choice succulents through which iguana roam freely. Inside the former barrack rooms is an impressive museum, the greater part of which is devoted to the battle of the Saints, the last major sea battle of the American revolutionary War and one of the greatest sea battles of the eighteenth century. The French and English navy had been at loggerheads throughout the century of course for the control of Atlantic colonial trade and the revolt of the American colonies from the mother country seemed to the French too good an opportunity to miss. Benjamin Franklin signed a treaty with King Louis XVI that the English regarded as tantamount to a declaration of war. On 12 April 1782, the year following Yorktown, 36 English vessels faced 31 French vessels in the channel between the Saintes and Dominica. A great English victory helped restore the prestige of the British navy after a series of defeats. One reason for English success was the use made of "the smasher" or carronade, a short-barreled lightweight gun that fired heavy shot over a short distance with such devastating consequences that the French called it "the devil's canon." We were able to inspect one of these weapons, clearly marked as made in the Carron ironworks in Scotland, on the ramparts of the fort.

Back in Bourg, over an authentic café au lait, some fell to wondering why the island had remained French after so decisive an English victory. The answer reminds us that the Caribbean islands were just a part of a wider conflict. In the Treaty of Paris (1783), Britain and France both recognized the independence of the United States, the English retained control of Canada including Quebec and in compensation the French retained the greater part of their Caribbean possessions.