St. Lucia, Lesser Antilles

We had sailed all night long with the square sails braced on starboard tack, and at 8:00am the crew went aloft to set many more sails to take advantage of the fair winds. We had arrived on the east side of St. Lucia, and we made a large loop west then south around the north end of the island to reach our anchorage. As the ship turned and the sails were brought around on port tack, the crew adjusted countless lines: sheets (which are actually ropes which control sails), braces (which control the angle of the yards), etc. This was done for each one of the square sails, as well as for several jibs and staysails. Maneuvers such as this are not done lightly on a large, square-rigged vessel!

We gathered on the Lido Deck and David Barnes hosted an informal forum on the future of the Caribbean. As we finished sharing thoughts on the topic, a group of 20 or so short-finned pilot whales appeared near our port side, and we rushed to the rails to admire them.

The village of Soufriere is set on one of the prettiest bays in the world, in the shadow of the two magnificent Pitons, with steep, green hills all around. Rain showers are so common that one never has to wait long for magnificent rainbows. Lush, green forest, the tall, triangular Pitons, and a village with fancifully decorated wooden French architecture made for a breathtakingly picturesque setting. We drove in mini vans to Soufriere volcano, described as ‘the Caribbean’s only drive-in volcano.’ The smell of sulphur filled the air near the fumaroles, where mud bubbled, and rocks were yellow with sulphur deposits. We walked through the beautiful Diamond Botanical Gardens, and saw colorful tropical flowers, a lovely waterfall and warm mineral baths. Down the road a bit further we visited Toraille Falls, where many of us took a refreshing dip and the daring got a pounding and refreshing water massage. Our excursion was capped off by a visit to Beacon Restaurant, perched high up on a mountainside overlooking Soufriere and the bay. We tasted local snacks and had delicious, refreshing punch while enjoying the stunning views of the Pitons.

Recap was in the lounge while the ship’s crew prepared a sumptuous barbecue dinner on the Lido deck. Emma gave an interesting presentation on the geological origins of the Caribbean and her islands. After feasting on grilled fish, lamb, rib-eye and countless other delicacies, David amused us with some of the origins of nautical terms. Then many of the ship’s crew reappeared on the Lido deck, but this time they came as the Sea Cloud II Chantey Singers. We tried to sing along – it was great fun! And afterwards, crew and guests shared conversation and drinks. What an incredibly full and memorable day this has been!