Bodrum,Turkey
Poseidon blessed Sea Cloud with a calm night passage along the rugged Turkist from Marmaris to Bodrum. Surely, hundreds of historically valuable shipwrecks lay just beneath our keel, waiting for the next generation of Bob Hohlfelder, George Bass, or Peter Throckmorton to unlock their secrets.
Soon after dawn we were jolted awake by now-familiar loud engine vibrations, announcing our docking in Bodrum. Pulling aside the port-side cabin curtains, guests viewed the magnificent Castle of St. Peter, built in 1402.
Bodrum, formally Halicarnassus, has everything: The birth of Herodotus in 484 BC; one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World (King Mausolos' mausoleum); spectacular ancient shipwreck museums (bronze age and glass treasures); a vibrant waterfront town crammed with modern private and tourist yachts, many of them built locally; and a functioning historic amphitheater. Even Bodrum's conquerors are famous: Suleyman the Magnificent and Alexander the Great.
A morning visit to the impressive castle museum highlighted our Bodrum visit. The unique 33rd century-old Bronze Age wreck – predating Homer's Odyssey – yielded its secrets through scores of amphorae, as told with great knowledge and humor by Bob Hohlfelder.
More than a ton of four-legged bronze "oxhide" ingots smelted in Cyprus were salvaged off Bodrum, many of which are on display in a full-scale replica of the ship. Bronze knives, axes, double axes, azes, scarabs, and measuring weights gathered from Syria to Egypt were explained by Don Frey, a physicist-turned-archeologist devoted to the museum.
Ever visit a completely dark museum? Well, we did at the castle and it was very impressive. Only the exquisite glass artifacts inside were illuminated. Fragile clear cups, colored goblets, pitchers, vases, etc. emitted their subtle hues. In addition, over half a ton of cullet – heavy chunks of glass – were salvaged (some displayed). Because each hue of blue, green or amber glass betrays its place of origin, archeologists dramatically increased our knowledge of early craftsmanship, trade routes, and commerce.
In the afternoon, most guests cruised along the coast aboard a spacious Bodrum boat and enjoyed a chilly swim. Others, curious about the excellent locally-built yachts, toured boat yards. One large yard builds steel, aluminum, wooden, and even cold-molded hulls from strips of mahogany logs imported from Africa. Other guests explored the two harbors, narrow streets, shops, and cafes in town. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed the day.
