Amorgos, Cyclades Islands, Greece
Early this morning, we neared an island unlike any of the others that we have explored thus far. We arrived to the Cyclades Islands, and the vegetation, the architecture, and even the air of the place was instantly different. After anchoring, we tendered ashore to experience this difference first-hand.
Our first destination of the day was the remote monastery, Moni Hozoviotissis, a beautiful, white building built directly into the cliffs of the southeastern side of the island. Reaching the monastery requires navigating a winding, narrow road by bus and then hiking up a set of uneven stone stairs. All this being said, the vertiginous view is spectacular and makes the daunting climb worth every step. Between sky and sea, it is impossible to tell which has a bluer color, and this contrasting with the gleaming white of the monastery was an unforgettable sight.
Eleanora’s falcons slowly slid by above us, using thermal winds, and more and more wildflowers made their appearance along the length of the climb. We were advised that the monastery is very traditional and that women are required to wear skirts past their knees when visiting. As many of our party were not in possession of these, we women donned a variety of skirt-like articles, including a large number of white kitchen aprons. Once appropriately clad, we began further exploration of the building itself. The tiny monastery required a bit more stair-climbing through a narrow, arched passageway and the church within was adorned with gilt icons, carved wooden panels, and glowing candles. The friendly priest was there to welcome us and shared information about the historical items surrounding him. Lastly, we were offered a taste of delicious local liquor, made from ingredients including honey, cinnamon, and other spices. Small, soft, powdered-sugar sweets were passed around and we were made to feel like honored guests.
After a return walk down the hill we drove a short way back to Hora and took time to explore its winding streets and alleyways. This is a very typical, unspoiled town in the Cyclades and it was fun to have time to photograph the myriad colors on chairs, doors, and window shutters. Another short drive back to the port and we re-boarded tenders for our beloved Sea Cloud.
After another fantastic lunch on deck and some down time, many of us reconvened for a showing of the famous sailing film, “Around Cape Horn.” Gil Grosvenor introduced the film, as he once knew Captain Irving Johnson quite well. Captain Johnson’s colorful commentary is always a highlight and the film was well attended. Immediately upon completion of the film we anchored for another opportunity to swim, just alongside the island of Ios. Even though it was bit more “refreshing” than even in days’ past, many of us still took the opportunity to plunge into the ever-blue Aegean Sea.
Our evening was made complete by a magnificent sunset entry into the caldera of Santorini. We entered as the sky became golden and the incredible white towns on the rim of the volcano were made orange by the fading light. Shortly thereafter, as we anchored and began our dinner barbecue on deck, a full moon rose over the caldera rim. Fading into and out of view as clouds rolled by, it was a stunning sight to see. Lastly, the ever-wonderful “Sea Cloud Shanty Gang” led us in rousing rounds of cheeky, fun, and historic sea shanties, pausing to add colorful commentary throughout. It was an absolutely wonderful day and we retired tonight, happy and pleasantly surprised from all that the day had to offer.
