At Sea

“Hit the rig!” came the captain’s call at 0800, as Martin, the ship’s bosun, began to coordinate the three mast teams as they climbed the ratlines into the rigging. We had positioned ourselves overnight to try to catch the light southwesterly breeze that funneled into the Cyclades around the Peleponessus, and we awoke with the island of Siphnos to our port side and the limestone cliffs of Poliegos to our stern. The breeze was only about 8 knots, so Captain Pushkarev ordered “squares in order,” or all of the square sails set from the lower topsails up to the royals. With such a light breeze, even the skysail on the mainmast could be set without a heel to the ship, trying to catch as much wind as possible.

We certainly weren’t going to break any speed records today, but the weather was gorgeous and the sails as magnificent as ever as we sailed along at two knots. As guests eased into the morning, key viewing and relaxation areas like the Monkey Deck above the bridge, the cushioned Blue Lagoon at the stern, and the Spanker Deck and Lido Bar all started to fill. Cameras were clicking as the crew trimmed the sails with the lines on the Promenade Deck, and the bridge filled with inquisitive visitors and “nautical advisors” who made sure we maintained course toward the island of Delos. Marine archaeologist Robyn Woodward gave a talk entitled “Sanctuaries of the Gods,” introducing Classical Greek architectural features that we would identify the following day at Delos. And in the afternoon Sharon Grainger gave a talk on Greek olive oil that included a sampling and comparison of olive oils from Greece and other Mediterranean countries.

“Man overboard!!!” came the call and the entire crew jumped into action as the Captain’s voice came over the ship’s p.a. system to announce that this was only a surprise drill for the crew. The procedure for recovering a man overboard is quite different when a square rigger is under sail and not under engine power, and it was fascinating to watch the boat maneuvers, the yards bracing back, and the lookout climbing up to the spanker top to keep an eye on the man overboard.

With the crew all on deck and the drill secured, Captain Pushkarev called for the setting of the jibs, staysails, spanker and gaff sails, and we all knew that we were in for a special treat as the Zodiacs were prepared for the unique opportunity to get off the ship and take photos of Sea Cloud under sail. It was the highlight of the day as the wind picked up to fill the sails, and we all had the unforgettable opportunity to round the moving ship in all its splendor. Back on board, the expedition leader gave a presentation on the fascinating history of the legendary Sea Cloud, before we went below to the main deck for a champagne reception in the original ten staterooms.

While Greece and Turkey have an abundance of incredible destinations, today’s destination was the Sea Cloud herself, and many of us felt that it was the highlight destination of a highlight voyage.