Sarande, Albania
Albania?!? What in the world were we to expect from this little European country that was closed to the world with an isolationist Communist regime for 45 years in the 20th century? After the country finally opened up in 1991, corrupt “money movers” from both Italy and Albania quickly manipulated the naiveté of the local people’s expectations of capitalism, and started private banks with interest rates that were too good to be true. The “pyramid schemes” bankrupted the population and the democratic government fell, with years of anarchy to follow. It is only in the last ten years that Albanians have picked up the pieces, and with considerable help from the European Union and the United States are now building the new foundations of their future.
But Albania has overcome plenty of setbacks in its 3,000 year history, and the amazing thing is that the distinctive language and culture that began with the ancient Illyrians still endures today. Our first visit was to the southernmost end of the country and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Butrint. Layer upon layer of civilizations occupied this strategic peninsula that is flanked by the productive lagoon of Lake Butrint on one side, fertile agricultural plains stretching inland, and the 3-kilometer Vivari Channel connecting Butrint to Corfu Strait. A close look at the map of the Adriatic Sea reveals that Albania is only 50 miles from the boot of Italy. It was more convenient for ancient travelers from the east to reach Rome or Venice by crossing the Adriatic from Albania than to traverse the rugged Dinarian Alps of the Balkan Peninsula. Butrint was a strategic location for the ancient Illyrians, then the Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Ottomon Turks.
Butrint was first excavated by the Italians under Mussolini, who was desperately trying to connect his Italy with the supremacy of the Roman Empire. All excavation and interest stopped during the Communist Period, when nature reclaimed its hold on the site. While Albanian and international excavations have resumed, the natural environment is one of the extraordinary aspects of Butrint today.
After our visit, we drove back through the olive groves and remnant concrete mushroom bunkers of the Communist era, then up to the Ottoman Turk Lekursi Castle atop the highest hill behind Sarande. The Castle was founded by the Turkish “bey” Ali Pasha, who controlled the region in the 19th century. The 360-degree panoramic views were magnificent, as were the Albanian wine and appetizers.
We returned to Sea Cloud for a short sail in the afternoon sea breeze. National Geographic Balkan Expert gave a talk entitled “The Myth of Maps”, and in the evening we learned about the history of the legendary Sea Cloud. An open house reception in the original staterooms highlighted the grandeur of the ship, topped by a gala dinner prepared by the ship’s galley.
